Loss of electrical power after hitting start button

[andybaggies]

As the title says this has happened to me a couple of times when starting him up in the morning. Key in, wait for the fuel pump to finish whirring, hit the engine start button and then click & complete loss of electrical power i.e. no dash lights at all. Both times it happened I noticed the 'click' came from underneath the seat and after switching off/on the second time there was still nothing. So lifted the seat, tapped a few components, sprayed a little WD40 (as you do with unknown electrical faults ) & hey presto he starts fine. Runs fine from here on in as well.

Earthing issues? Is there some non blowable fuse clicking in/out. Anyone got any ideas?

Andy B

BTW 'ol Reggie is running like a train on his 50 mile daily commute and I've added a few more bits & pieces with a few more to come. Will fire up a separate thread soon.

[andybaggies]

Aha! I can now answer my own question... got back home and found a loose positive battery terminal bolt. Pretty sure this is to blame and a split washer should sort it.

[shebee]

Hope thats it for you, i was going to say check the usual suspects... Battery, kill switch, sideatand switch and the connection on the main plug up to the dash

[andybaggies]

BTW 'ol Reggie is running like a train on his 50 mile daily commute ....

As usual this was the kiss of death as a week later the rectifier/regulator popped and took the battery with it. Luckily I was pushing distance from home but unluckily it was on probably the hottest most humid day of the century. Good reason to rehydrate with a couple of beers mind.

Anyway I bought the R/R from electrexworld, see RR62 which is a direct replacement for the TL1000 (http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR62.html). Although this did fit the existing mounting bracket the cooling fins are slightly larger than standard which caused it to foul the frame rails. I had to make a short bracket that moved the whole mounting forward and allowed it to fit. The side panel fins had to be cut out, again to account for the extra size of the cooling fins, but I suspect they'll be no more R/R overheating.

I got the battery from Tanya, a YTZ 12S, that was a straight fit. But notice the small clamp that holds the battery down is sitting on a lower portion and not the (110mm ) top - not all batteries have this lower step. BTW when replacing the battery I realised it had never been fitted correctly as it needed that little extra lift to allow it to lay down flatter and therefore pushed farther forward. And I'll be damned! the tool roll can now just be thrown in and the seat just slides in and clicks shut.

Andy B

New rectifier

P1010077 (401x500).jpg (143.63 KiB) Viewed 2698 times

[snapdragon]

Good old electrexworld very helpful folks. Glad you didn't have too far to push, and finding the previously ill fitted battery has to be a bonus