Hey all.
Done a few hundred miles since I picked up my 55 plate 650 Rapter from 3X several weeks ago. Enormous fun, especially as the weather has been fairly good.
However, thought I better check the chain and have found it be very slack. I really hope 3X checked it before they handed it over to me. It feels slightly snatchy in first and second so might have something to do with it as well.
Anyway, I bought a cheapo rear paddock stand with cups (dodgy putting it on trying to avoid all the rear brake stuff and being so close to the end of the swingarm). Also bought a 28mm socket to loosten the right hand side. I'm just checking if the chain should go that slack that quickly? The bike has done 4300 odd miles. Also, I plan to lift the back up on the paddock stand, loosten the right hand nut, adjust using the two screws at the end of the swingarm and line up. This the right way? Should I try and loosten the nut before lifting the back up?
Yes, I am a complete technical noobaphile. Trying to master the basic stuff (without breaking my bike!) before trying the more challenging things.
Many thanks,
Tom.
Chain Adjustment
- snapdragon
- Moderator
- Posts: 3245
- Joined: 22 years ago
- Location: Wiltshire
I'd loosen the nut but not bother with the stand - adjust both sides evenly leaving about 25mm of movement up and down on the chain (bounce on the seat if it doesn't seem to be moving) and then tighten the axle nut back up. I find leaving the wheel grounded helps, where using a paddock stand doesn't.
The original chains on the older litre bikes was made of jelly - so do check again in a hundred miles - if it starts needing adjustment in a short period - then time for a new chain/sprockets (get a good set, your Raptor deserves it )
The original chains on the older litre bikes was made of jelly - so do check again in a hundred miles - if it starts needing adjustment in a short period - then time for a new chain/sprockets (get a good set, your Raptor deserves it )
SnappY
~~X~X~{:>
~~X~X~{:>
Hi Lyceum,
The only thing I'd add to what snapdragon has said is that the nut is torqued at 74 ft/lbs, if you don't have a torque wrench then mark the nut and swingarm so you can tighten it back to this point, I actually do mine on a stand cos I find it a bit easier but no big deal whatever works for you.
Regards, zorro
The only thing I'd add to what snapdragon has said is that the nut is torqued at 74 ft/lbs, if you don't have a torque wrench then mark the nut and swingarm so you can tighten it back to this point, I actually do mine on a stand cos I find it a bit easier but no big deal whatever works for you.
Regards, zorro
- stevepratt48
- On the Road
- Posts: 160
- Joined: 17 years ago
- Location: Anglesey
One other thing (Which is where the stand comes in handy!)
Make sure that you find the tightest part of the chain, by spinning the back wheel & trying, before you adjust!!
If you adjust on the slack bit, the chain will be too tight on the tight bit, and you will trash the gearbox bearing, or chain, or both!
You'll find much less hunting, when the tension is right.
Chains normally stretch a lot, in the first thou, then settle down........
Having adjusted, and tightened the rear axle, I always pinch the adjuster bolts 'tight', in case there is any play, and the axle pulls forward under power.
Make sure that you find the tightest part of the chain, by spinning the back wheel & trying, before you adjust!!
If you adjust on the slack bit, the chain will be too tight on the tight bit, and you will trash the gearbox bearing, or chain, or both!
You'll find much less hunting, when the tension is right.
Chains normally stretch a lot, in the first thou, then settle down........
Having adjusted, and tightened the rear axle, I always pinch the adjuster bolts 'tight', in case there is any play, and the axle pulls forward under power.
Steve Pratt
Are you coming, or just naturally happy?
Are you coming, or just naturally happy?