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Miz wrote:55 years agoOK, it could be that the new one is getting warm as it is working, the old one is cold as it is doing nothing. Modern electronics mean that the output voltage is better controlled so you do not notice the difference in the brightness of the lights.
Have you bolted the regulator to its fixing, some need the earth/grounding of the fixing to work correctly.
hi miz, silly me i never bolted to frame but will in the morn. yes i thought the same as you i.e warm working cold not working but the lights not getting brighter threw me but as new battery was only fitted yesterday with full charge they wont get brighter. will fit new rec/reg back on tomorrow (and bolt it down) and update when tested again. thanks everyone who gave help and advice as very much apreciated
good news folks is tested today and with engine not running reading was 13volts and when engine started shot up to 14.4 volts so definatly working so happy at last. thanks everyone again who gave help and advice very much apreciated the 14.4 reading was with lights off.
Last edited by kriss on |April 1st, 2012|, 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Even the cheapest £5 meter will be a massive help when working with electrons, just as long as it has several Ohms ranges and DC Voltage and AC Voltage ranges.
My crappy little meter is in some ways more convenient than a top spec Fluke meter which we use at work, the small body is handy when working around a bike, and it has dinky little probes which reach places larger probes wont get too.
The most commonly used meter range will be DC volts 0 -25 , thats a must have for checking batteries. And voltage drop around the loom.
When using the resistance ranges dont worry too much about absolute values , the zero settings are seldom spot on, just use it in a binary way,,,ie the measured item like a switch contact will be either ON ( low resistance) or OFF . high resistance.
Dont fuss about current ranges, these have limited diagnostic uses and most will be too small, to measure current/amps its better to have a dedicated meter with a "tong" probe that encircles the conductor being checked.
Most important thing with a meter is that you can jam it somewhere that is readable and have access to whatever terminals are being probed, so a wee body with decent length leads or a 3rd hand is handy.
pod wrote:55 years agoEven the cheapest £5 meter will be a massive help when working with electrons, just as long as it has several Ohms ranges and DC Voltage and AC Voltage ranges.
My crappy little meter is in some ways more convenient than a top spec Fluke meter which we use at work, the small body is handy when working around a bike, and it has dinky little probes which reach places larger probes wont get too.
The most commonly used meter range will be DC volts 0 -25 , thats a must have for checking batteries. And voltage drop around the loom.
When using the resistance ranges dont worry too much about absolute values , the zero settings are seldom spot on, just use it in a binary way,,,ie the measured item like a switch contact will be either ON ( low resistance) or OFF . high resistance.
Dont fuss about current ranges, these have limited diagnostic uses and most will be too small, to measure current/amps its better to have a dedicated meter with a "tong" probe that encircles the conductor being checked.
Most important thing with a meter is that you can jam it somewhere that is readable and have access to whatever terminals are being probed, so a wee body with decent length leads or a 3rd hand is handy.
mnay thanks pod, im not really clued up on these things but determined to learn
Pod is right get a cheap multi meter a digital one will last longer toolstation do one for £5.37 .But be careful if you start using it on mains or high tension(ignition)
