Hydraulic clutch, brakes, tre & carbon bits

[Boofhead]

G'day all,
I hope everyone had a great Christmas & all the best for the new year.
I've saved some cash to 'bling up' my bike, but before I do, I need some questions answered so I don't waste any of the money!
Now from what I've read on this site, the hydraulic clutch conversion seems relatively straight forward. Apparently the TLR has 3 different pushrod lengths, is this true? And if so, which would be the correct pushrod/length for my 2005 MV Augusta complience plated Raptor? Or do I get the longest pushrod and cut it down? (if you can do such a thing). Also are there any other traps that I need to know about with this conversion besides the 100mm longer hydraulic line, such as covers, the wiring going into the clutch cover & the wiring going into the clutch lever mount?
Do TLR levers fit the Raptors Nissin brake master cylinder? or do I need to get a TLR master cylinder as well? If I do need to get a TLR master cylinder, will the TLR master cylinder suit the Brembo calipers? I would like to keep everything Suzuki if I can for ease of replacement.
I'm about to install a brand new Power Commander that came with the bike when I bought it. So while I'm at it, I will install a TRE. Do all TRE's for a TL1000s fit the Raptor? Or are there particular TRE's for a certain year of manufacture because of the engine and/or the wiring loom?
Are there any reputable companies still manufacturing carbon bits for Raptors? I've emailed a couple of companies that I've found on the internet, but I have had no response. I was after the solo seat, frame infills and the key protector. If I can't get the solo seat, I gather the 'V-Raptor' solo seat will fit (if I can find one).
Thanks for taking the time to read my dribble and I would really appreciate any help. It's hard to find info locally on these great bikes and mine is the only one where I live (was the last 1000 sold new in Australia as well).

Cheers and stay upright
from Boofhead

P.S. Would it be wrong of me to 'borrow' as many bits as I can from my brothers RSV Aprillia while he's away holidays??

[snapdragon]

-/-P.S. Would it be wrong of me to 'borrow' as many bits as I can from my brothers RSV Aprillia while he's away holidays??

Yes it would be very wrong

as far as the other stuff - carbon bits are available, in Uk at least, errm recent posts about carbon somewhere

the rest? I've no idea, as mine is near stock, am sure someone else will know though

[Crap Tartan]

any TRE for the TLS should be fine, for carbon check emoto, not cheap but pretty good stuff.

Have never done or even seen the TLR clutch conversion so cant comment. the Vrap seat cover (its not a solo seat) will fit but they are rockin horse shit! Same goes for the CF seat cover.

The swingarm from the RSV can be made to fit and looks ace! (so steal it now)

[tricky]

I'm doing a hydraulic clutch conversion on my rap right now. Should be tested in few weeks so I'll keep you informed if it's successful I'll post everything step by step then.

[vassilis67]

Another thing you can "usurp" from your brother's mille, is the complete front end...you can leave him the brake calipers being a good brother and all..Of course you will have to be very careful because you can easiliy go over the handle bars...

[tricky]

Totally forgot about this spread
My hydraulic clutch conversion project was successful! Step by step:

1. You need longer pushrod. The original is 99mm long, I made it 109mm long. (that was for free)
2. TLR slave cylinder. Got it on ebay for around 25 pounds (incl. shipping)
3. I've bought used SV1000 master cylinder and new lever. Totally cost me ~30 pounds (from local used spares supplier)
4. Ordered a new braided clutch hose form local supplier - ~20 pounds. I think standard hoses from other bikes should fit, you need to measure the length only.
5. A pair of new bolts needed to fit the slave cylinder.
6. And finally you need to saw off a part of the sprocket cover.

Here are some pics:

[tricky]

Pushrod sketch:

[snapdragon]

Thanks for the update tricky

how are you liking the changes ?

[tricky]

First of all - no more maintenance! I had to change clutch cable 2 or 3 times before..
I like the clutch action and it's softer now, more predictable

[AZ]

This is at the top of my to do list for this year.

[shedmonkey]

Nice work

[Tommytuck]

Mmmm, deffo interested in this clutch mod....on the look out for clutch master & slave cylinder at present.
Found an interesting mod for the clutch activated start switch while researching this subject.

A hydraulic switch that can be attached to the TL1000 master cylinder & wires straight into your original Rap clutch switch wires.
Pulling the clutch in uses the hydraulic motion to activate the switch (instead of the inadequate rap plunger mechanism), which in turn lets you retain the clutch activated start feature on the Rap without the hassle of water ingress etc.

Of course you need to be doing the whole hydraulic clutch mod to avail of this feature.......
Cancels out the obligatory clutch cable & damp/worn clutch switch issues on the Rap.

If someone has already identified/covered this "hydraulic switch" mod then apologies in advance

[weirdo]

That's the same as the rear brake light switch

[Tommytuck]

Tis exactly what it is Weirdo......£14.99 on ebay plus £2 delivery (pos cheaper elsewhere?)
Mate done this mod on one of his bikes a while back & worked at treat.

As I say, you need to be doing the full hydraulic clutch conversion to use this method for the switch fix.
Simply nip off the two wires close to the original Rap clutch switch gear & solder the new hydraulic switch wires to them which leaves the connectors in tact should you ever need to remove the new TL/SV or whatever hydraulic clutch mechanism you choose to use!
Make sure & use shrink wrap or some other form of waterproof covering on the newly soldered wires!
This mod also eliminates the mapping issues obviously as you're still using the clutch activated start for the ECU to read.

Hopefully this will be one of my first drive/rideability mods to perform on my new Rap.
Clutch is heavy & bike hasn't started first time each time since taking delivery a few days ago, the joys of buying without viewing
but ain't a big deal as it was bought to keep/modify/personalise.

Just have to start cruising the web for some TL/SV/compatible Clutch master & slave cylinder parts.....
The hydraulic switches i've been viewing have a 1.25 thread pitch so need make sure the TL/SV clutch master cylinders threads match.
Will do a pic diary of full mod when eventually getting round to doing it

[Tommytuck]

Just as a matter of interest, any handlebar mounted hydraulic clutch master cylinder/lever mechanism should suffice for this fix Yamaha etc. (as long as the clamps fit the handle bars)
just need to make sure the slave cylinder is compatible as per tricky's fix....