clutch conversion
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Jayjayridge
- On the Road
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- Joined: 10 years ago
clutch conversion
i am looking to go hydraulic with my clutch and have been looking around for info. if i have this right all i need is tl1000r slave cylinder and pushrod, sv1000 master and lever and alter sprocket cover myself. once i have right length hose this is all bolt on? or do i need to change pushrod seal for sv type?
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Crap Tartan
- On the Road
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- Joined: 16 years ago
- Location: Sitting in front of the screen in Portpatrick again
Re: clutch conversion
do a search on here, a few have already done it and given a full account of how and whats needed.
Oh, but I am not one of them............................
Oh, but I am not one of them............................
nil illigitimae carborundum
Re: clutch conversion
G'day Jayjayridge,
I converted my Rap to a hydraulic clutch a bit over 12 months ago & I'm glad that I did. After doing some research from the Raptorchapter, the TL/DL forums, & picking a couple of Suzuki mechanics brains, this is how I went about it.
I used Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom parts over SV1000 or TLR1000 (TLR is different anyway) because the DL has coffin type master cylinders & I wanted my Rap to have a low profile across the bars. I also used a couple of Suzuki parts where I could have modified the Raptor parts, but I didn't want to ruin any of the originals.
The parts list is as follows:
DL1000 V-Strom clutch master cylinder (brake master cylinder as well so they match). These were the only used parts I purchased, and the only parts that weren't cheaper than new ones!!
DL1000 V-Strom clutch slave cylinder (comes complete incl. rubber seal & bleeder etc) - PRODUCT NUMBER: 2316006G02
DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter (114mm), you would think that it would fit being a factory part.....but it doesn't!! To check the length to be sure, bolt the DL1000 V-Strom sprocket cover on & use a vernier caliper to measure the depth from the outer most part of the sprocket cover to the clutch seal inside the crank case. Then measure the depth of the hole in the slave cylinder to the outside of the rubber boot. Add these together & this give you the maximum length you can use which gives a small amount of free play before the clutch engages.
DL1000 V-Strom Spacer - PRODUCT NUMBER: 2317106G00. For mounting slave cylinder.
Bolts - 1 off M6 x 70 & 1 off M6 x 65 for mounting slave cylinder. Suzuki sell these but I couldn't find the part No. Cheaper at the hardware store anyway.
DL1000 V-Strom Sprocket Cover - PRODUCT NUMBER: 1136006G00. This item differs from the Rap cover in its shape at the swing arm end, other than that it bolts straight on. I made a template from the Raps cover & cut the Suzuki cover to match. I then plastic welded a new strip up the end where I modified it, then covered it in fake carbon fibre shrink wrap. Looks like a factory item!!
The bolting for the sprocket cover (other than the slave cylinder mounts) use the Rap bolts (M6 x 35). You will notice that the Suzuki Sprocket Cover uses a slightly different bolting arrangement, but all the holes are there in the crankcase. There will be one one hole in the Suzuki cover at the bottom you can't use unless you tap the matching hole in the crankcase, which I haven't done yet either.
Hydraulic clutch line - 1050mm long with a 90º banjo at the master cylinder end & a straight banjo at the slave cylinder end.
On the electrical side of things, you will have to modify the Rap wiring connection to suit the Suzuki connections on the clutch master cylinder, or just by pass it. It was too hard to find a connecting plug that matched the Rap's plug to make a patch loom. So I spliced into the Rap's loom & made my own patch loom leaving the original plug on the loom so I could convert it back to a cable clutch if for some stupid reason I needed to.
One thing you might want to consider when going to all the trouble of doing this conversion is machining a brass or nylon sleeve that covers the pushrod. According to the DL forum, the clutch mechanism is prone to seizing as the pushrod is exposed to all the chain lube as it runs close to the sprocket. However, regular maintenance will stop this problem also.
I tried to attach some pics of my bike for reference, but the files were too big. I hope my dribble will be of some use to you and others anyway
.
Stay upright & cheers from
Boofhead
I converted my Rap to a hydraulic clutch a bit over 12 months ago & I'm glad that I did. After doing some research from the Raptorchapter, the TL/DL forums, & picking a couple of Suzuki mechanics brains, this is how I went about it.
I used Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom parts over SV1000 or TLR1000 (TLR is different anyway) because the DL has coffin type master cylinders & I wanted my Rap to have a low profile across the bars. I also used a couple of Suzuki parts where I could have modified the Raptor parts, but I didn't want to ruin any of the originals.
The parts list is as follows:
DL1000 V-Strom clutch master cylinder (brake master cylinder as well so they match). These were the only used parts I purchased, and the only parts that weren't cheaper than new ones!!
DL1000 V-Strom clutch slave cylinder (comes complete incl. rubber seal & bleeder etc) - PRODUCT NUMBER: 2316006G02
DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter (114mm), you would think that it would fit being a factory part.....but it doesn't!! To check the length to be sure, bolt the DL1000 V-Strom sprocket cover on & use a vernier caliper to measure the depth from the outer most part of the sprocket cover to the clutch seal inside the crank case. Then measure the depth of the hole in the slave cylinder to the outside of the rubber boot. Add these together & this give you the maximum length you can use which gives a small amount of free play before the clutch engages.
DL1000 V-Strom Spacer - PRODUCT NUMBER: 2317106G00. For mounting slave cylinder.
Bolts - 1 off M6 x 70 & 1 off M6 x 65 for mounting slave cylinder. Suzuki sell these but I couldn't find the part No. Cheaper at the hardware store anyway.
DL1000 V-Strom Sprocket Cover - PRODUCT NUMBER: 1136006G00. This item differs from the Rap cover in its shape at the swing arm end, other than that it bolts straight on. I made a template from the Raps cover & cut the Suzuki cover to match. I then plastic welded a new strip up the end where I modified it, then covered it in fake carbon fibre shrink wrap. Looks like a factory item!!
The bolting for the sprocket cover (other than the slave cylinder mounts) use the Rap bolts (M6 x 35). You will notice that the Suzuki Sprocket Cover uses a slightly different bolting arrangement, but all the holes are there in the crankcase. There will be one one hole in the Suzuki cover at the bottom you can't use unless you tap the matching hole in the crankcase, which I haven't done yet either.
Hydraulic clutch line - 1050mm long with a 90º banjo at the master cylinder end & a straight banjo at the slave cylinder end.
On the electrical side of things, you will have to modify the Rap wiring connection to suit the Suzuki connections on the clutch master cylinder, or just by pass it. It was too hard to find a connecting plug that matched the Rap's plug to make a patch loom. So I spliced into the Rap's loom & made my own patch loom leaving the original plug on the loom so I could convert it back to a cable clutch if for some stupid reason I needed to.
One thing you might want to consider when going to all the trouble of doing this conversion is machining a brass or nylon sleeve that covers the pushrod. According to the DL forum, the clutch mechanism is prone to seizing as the pushrod is exposed to all the chain lube as it runs close to the sprocket. However, regular maintenance will stop this problem also.
I tried to attach some pics of my bike for reference, but the files were too big. I hope my dribble will be of some use to you and others anyway
.Stay upright & cheers from
Boofhead
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shebee
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Re: clutch conversion
Boof head if you email me the pics i will resize them for you it if helps. Sheb_ (at) hotmail.com take out the spaces and replace (at) with @
Sent from my iPad using Technical magic
Sent from my iPad using Technical magic
Twisted Tequila Sister
Re: clutch conversion
G'day Jayjayridge,
I need to correct & also add a couple of small bits that I missed 'cause I had quite a few beverages while I was typing!!
First of all it's best to use the DL1000 V-Strom or SV1000 sprocket covers rather than modifying the Rap cover. The reason being is that the Suzuki sprocket covers have a piece moulded on them for the slave cylinder's seal to be held in place. Without the moulding for the seal, the seal would just slide between the slave cylinder & crank case & not keep any of the crap out of the slave cylinder's piston.
The much better/easier way to measure the pushrod length, & this how I actually done it (my brain was a getting a little foggy by now!!), is to put the pushrod into the crank case, then place the slave cylinder on the pushrod making sure the piston is pushed all the way in. Then measure the gap between the mounting points of the slave cylinder & crank case using the bolt hole that has no spacer (the bottom one). This measurement is the amount you need to cut off the pushrod. The overall length of the pushrod is 114mm max, any longer & the clutch will slip........sorry 'bout that!
A small mistake I made about the bolting for the sprocket cover was about tapping the hole in the crank case because the Suzuki cover uses different bolt holes. Well, that hole does have an M6 thread in it, I had just forgotten & haven't bothered getting a bolt for it yet. This means the cover needs 3 off M6 x 35 bolts plus the 2 bolts for the slave cylinder........sorry 'bout that too!
Also, I forgot to mention the sensor/bolt on the sprocket cover is the same as the Rap's & you will also need banjo bolts & washers for the master & slave cylinders.
I have emailed pics to shebee, so hopefully it will all come together & make sense.
cheers
Boofhead
I need to correct & also add a couple of small bits that I missed 'cause I had quite a few beverages while I was typing!!
First of all it's best to use the DL1000 V-Strom or SV1000 sprocket covers rather than modifying the Rap cover. The reason being is that the Suzuki sprocket covers have a piece moulded on them for the slave cylinder's seal to be held in place. Without the moulding for the seal, the seal would just slide between the slave cylinder & crank case & not keep any of the crap out of the slave cylinder's piston.
The much better/easier way to measure the pushrod length, & this how I actually done it (my brain was a getting a little foggy by now!!), is to put the pushrod into the crank case, then place the slave cylinder on the pushrod making sure the piston is pushed all the way in. Then measure the gap between the mounting points of the slave cylinder & crank case using the bolt hole that has no spacer (the bottom one). This measurement is the amount you need to cut off the pushrod. The overall length of the pushrod is 114mm max, any longer & the clutch will slip........sorry 'bout that!
A small mistake I made about the bolting for the sprocket cover was about tapping the hole in the crank case because the Suzuki cover uses different bolt holes. Well, that hole does have an M6 thread in it, I had just forgotten & haven't bothered getting a bolt for it yet. This means the cover needs 3 off M6 x 35 bolts plus the 2 bolts for the slave cylinder........sorry 'bout that too!
Also, I forgot to mention the sensor/bolt on the sprocket cover is the same as the Rap's & you will also need banjo bolts & washers for the master & slave cylinders.
I have emailed pics to shebee, so hopefully it will all come together & make sense.
cheers
Boofhead