Backed the bike out of the garage the other day and heard the back brake was binding a little but didn't really think much of it. Went out for a 40 minute blast and by the end found that the rear pedal didn't work at all. No pressure on the pedal just total travel.
Remember thinking my foot felt warm while riding so have a feeling there was a fair bit of binding on the brake. Surprised I didn't notice it on the ride.
Any advice for what might be wrong here? I'd like to try and fix it myself but not sure where to start. Should I do a system bleed? Should I strip the calpier (if so, where on earth can I get seals!), should I get a new MC? No idea where to start! Never worked on the brakes at all before (I just do oil changes and a little basic spannering) so advice is welcome.
Also, anyone here live up Dundee way?
cF^ wrote:55 years ago-//-Any advice for what might be wrong here? I'd like to try and fix it myself but not sure where to start. Should I do a system bleed? Should I strip the calpier (if so, where on earth can I get seals!), should I get a new MC? No idea where to start! Never worked on the brakes at all before (I just do oil changes and a little basic spannering) so advice is welcome.
Also, anyone here live up Dundee way?
cheers all
I'd check the pistons for binding first - new seals are available on ebay, m/c from other makes fits too, I got a recon one for small £$€
Yup, put "pistons" into the search box for heaps of advice, IMHO a bit of heat shielding for the rear brake reservoir wouldn't go amiss, but maybe that's just down here in Oz.
Road racing's where it's at - going round in circles all day is for hamsters.
OK took the brake pads out and noticed that when pumping the brakes only one of the pistons really moved. So what do I do now? Is it ok to drain the brake system to take the caliper apart? I thought you always had to make sure no air got in!
If one piston is free and moving properly and the other does not move at all, try blocking the moving piston so all the pressure is going to the stuck one. See if it frees off? If so then astrip and clean of the calipers with new seals will be good enough.
If you have no real pressure at all when pressing your pedal then I would suspect the MC too.
It went on mine and I replaced with a new one, stripped and cleaned the calipers and replaced all seals, full bleed of the brakes and its spot on again.
So today I used a C-clamp to shove it back in and that seems to have free'd it up. Guessing its corrosion on the inside? Wanted to change the brake fluids but I guess I should rebuild the caliper before I bother. Anyone got any advice on how to go about this?
Brake pad was pretty shagged so have a new one on the way.
Theres plenty info on this on this forum and others.
Get the seals for the caliper ordered and once you have them strip the caliper.
Remove brake pads,pump out both pistons, then all the fluid, loosen all the bolts whilst the caliper is still held on its mount.
remove the caliper and split the two halves, Clean out everything, remove all old seals, inspect and clean. Check the pistons for corrosion/damage.
Once everything is cleaned and looks ok, dont forget the bleed valves, re-assemble using new, clean DOT5 fluid and new seals everywhere.
Clean up the pads or replace them too if worn or badly glazed.
Then search on here for all the clever ideason how to bleed the back brake!!!!
Best of luck with that.......................
I still would strip and check the MC as from your description I would reckon its fekked I`m afraid but hopefully I am wrong
Bum. Cheers for the advice. Will drain it off tonight and see how I go. Fingers crossed the MC hasn't gone
Anyone know the size for the seals? Only place I can see on ebay want dimensions. Don't have a set of calipers handy!
Gutted to be missing all this gorgeous weather too!
Spyke wrote:55 years agoYup, put "pistons" into the search box for heaps of advice, IMHO a bit of heat shielding for the rear brake reservoir wouldn't go amiss, but maybe that's just down here in Oz.
I dont know why they continue to build bikes with the master so close to exhaust. My last bike was the worst for rear brake problems on a new bike (ducati) You could literally feel the heat at the master generated from the exhaust, no wonder people have so many problems with brakes. Cagiva Raptor should have retained suzuki brakes too cough cough i think they are the better rear brake
