It took me 20+ years to get the kitchen done ... in the interim there was the ‘pogenpol Raptor’, the ‘B&Q Chop’ and the ‘MFI trike (never actually completely finished and Lots of bits didn’t fit’
The rusty work hoss.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Twisted Tequila Sister
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Normally i would agree shebee, house things can wait.. but our windows are cream crackered and last winter was a cold one for us, colder inside than out from december to february ish.
So something will have to be sold, last in first out? First in last out?
if only i had a friend who could buy one & me buy it back
So something will have to be sold, last in first out? First in last out?
if only i had a friend who could buy one & me buy it back
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Nick, you might be right!I think it'll need a chain too!
The very first few Darmahs came with a lowered rear subframe with shorter shocks. Combine this with overly long forks and the handling had 'unusual' characteristics. I'm assuming the steering damper was fitted because of this and never removed when later models came with longer shocks & shorter forks.Please tell me that orange thing up front isn't a steering damper?
This was one I had in the garage that I fitted to see what it looks like.
You've gotta remember Craig that these projects aren't on a 'daily' so time isn't the imperative. And to me it doesn't look like you're throwing it together. Beside we've all done working 'bodges' that make us blush... well I definitely have.I'm Jealous, your projects look & sound much more involved than the Rap, i'm just throwing it back together & hoping for the best.
Good man! you know it makes sense.Bandits gone.
Bought chain & sprockets for the Raptor.
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Chucked the exhaust links on, there sitting too low for the holes on the frame
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
I'm thinking these aren't the standard link pipes so did they previously utilises the holes? You mean the welded on frame lugs with a convex inner that took rubber anti vibration bungs? with a matching welded on tab on the original fitment link pipe/cans?Chucked the exhaust links on, there sitting too low for the holes on the frame
The after market pipes & cans I fitted, Max Torque, don't utilise these mounting points and don't seem any worse off because of it. Probably because they are 400 billion Kgs lighter than the originals.
Andy B
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Exactly those andy, they did use them before but if i remember rightly they were always a pain to get lined up.
Good info, i'll see what the cans hang like without use, might have to invest in carbon cans.
Good info, i'll see what the cans hang like without use, might have to invest in carbon cans.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
With the original pipes/cans my mounting lugs snapped off so it's definitely a vibration/stress point in the system.
Although with the lighter ones I've had to replace the rear downpipe/link pipe union gasket which isn't the nicest of all jobs. I'm assuming you've got light after market cans on yours.
btw clear silicon sealant, Granville from Halfords, makes for a good jointing compound. A gentle smear after bolting him all up and then fire it up to cure.
Andy B
Although with the lighter ones I've had to replace the rear downpipe/link pipe union gasket which isn't the nicest of all jobs. I'm assuming you've got light after market cans on yours.
btw clear silicon sealant, Granville from Halfords, makes for a good jointing compound. A gentle smear after bolting him all up and then fire it up to cure.
Andy B
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
And probably whisper-quiet, I don't doubt!andybaggies wrote: ↑4 years ago [. Probably because they are 400 billion Kgs lighter than the originals.
Andy B
Nick
Re: The rusty work hoss.
C24 error, definitely misfiring can feel it shaking, can see my front exhaust bodge.. boo.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Doesn't sound that bad, but a bit of an unfamiliar rattling too, sort of cyclical. I don't suppose that error codes are in the owners handbook? I'd have to get out of bed to look...
Nick
Nick
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
I'm already out of bed & C24 is gear position switch voltage absent. And comes under ignition system malfunction.
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Must have been a loose wire, i had a coolant leak from one of the hoses from the thermostat so had the air box off, chucked it all back together and ran it up to temp and no fault at the moment.
In another note, i took the cracked footplate to some welders, who blately said "That's cast, i can't do it" So i took it to an aluminium specialist who said i'll have a go and then told me he couldn't do it. It'll just melt.
Soooo I've drilled holes and the end of the cracks to stop them, ground the cracks out to make the groove deeper and filled it with JB Weld.
Also, Can anyone measure the gear lever pivot bolt for me? I've lost it.
In another note, i took the cracked footplate to some welders, who blately said "That's cast, i can't do it" So i took it to an aluminium specialist who said i'll have a go and then told me he couldn't do it. It'll just melt.
Soooo I've drilled holes and the end of the cracks to stop them, ground the cracks out to make the groove deeper and filled it with JB Weld.
Also, Can anyone measure the gear lever pivot bolt for me? I've lost it.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Is this the darling?
It's a 6 mm hex, with the larger portion being 11.75mm wide & 22m long and the threaded portion is M8 and 14mm long. The gear lever itself had an O ring on either side to retain the grease - if you look carefully the bolt has a little recessed channel in it to hold the grease. Note, that the washer holds one of the O rings in.
One thing you don't want to happen is that when you tighten the bolt up it prevents the lever from moving so the length of the larger portion is critical.
Andy B
It's a 6 mm hex, with the larger portion being 11.75mm wide & 22m long and the threaded portion is M8 and 14mm long. The gear lever itself had an O ring on either side to retain the grease - if you look carefully the bolt has a little recessed channel in it to hold the grease. Note, that the washer holds one of the O rings in.
One thing you don't want to happen is that when you tighten the bolt up it prevents the lever from moving so the length of the larger portion is critical.
Andy B