9. Wind air bleed screws in full closed and set running balance. Connect vacuum gauges to fuel pressure regulator vacuum ports. Leave fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines open. Remove the other vacuum line coming from the rear throttle body next to the fuel pressure reg take off at the check valve on the left hand side and plug. Keep all other vacuum lines/electrical connectors to the airbox, etc connected.
With respect to the above step in balancing the throttle bodies, I assume the actual balancing is carried out on the screw on top the linkage on right hand side of the front throttle body?. what should be the correct settings for the air bleed screws be, are these to be reset after balancing?
Yeah, clear as mud, isn't it? There are actually 2 forms of balance, the 'coarse' which is the linkage you refer to, and then a fine une, using the air bleed screws. One thing to note, when setting the TPS (Sort of goes with this) is that the rear injector provides the input, if the rear is being held open by the front, so to speak, then the TPS will be out. Need to back off the rear injector stop, so both 'stop' throttles at same point (1200 RPM)
Isn't getting at the linkage fun??
Well i've sort of got a steady tick over but it's at 2000RPM and can't get it any lower, the idle ajuster knob is totally backed off. Are the air bleed screws just for fine ajustment coz the TL1000 manual says they have to be between 1-1 1/2 turns out. If they are used for fine ajustment are they just wound out like 1/2 a turn till throttle bodies are balanced and left?
the '2 1/2 turns out' is a ball park figure, to be fine tuned when coarse balance is finished. Are you sure the throttle isn't sitting on rear injector stop? If both stops are wound back, and still 2000, sounds like a sticking /worn throttle valve oer an air leak (Rubbers?). If the TPS has been moved, that can also kick up the idle.
Not an expert, just skinned knuckles & kicked cat a few times, getting my 2 set up!!
Cheers Steve, got it all back together this aft. all balanced up etc and it now idles at 3000RPM, so i've coated the inlet rubber flanges in silicone sealer and put the back in the air box. hopefully this will cure the god awful problem. It's begining to really nark me at the moment.
The best news is though it's gonna be pissing it down this weekend when the girlfriend and me go up to ingleton for the sv650.org weekend ride out. think we'd be better off with wet suits and jet skis.
at the right side of the rear TB, there's a little 'stop' screw thingie which you must set to spec with feeler gauges. can't remember at the moment what it is actually for (i think something with opening the butterflies not too much), but it could be related to your high idle probs...
the procedure for the throttle linkages and the fast dile cable is in the manual, you should be having normal idle RPM with or without the airbox.
God dam italian bike!!!!!!!! why is it the bit that goes wrong is the bloody japanese bit. now theses no spark the rear throttle stop wasn't touching. this is getting fustrated to the point i'm considering taking it to a dealer ( long push). anybody converted one to a aprillia or duke engine?
The TPS sensor is the easy bit it's just having it all set up properly, putting it all back together only to discover it don't run at at all like it should. doin my nut in.
I think i'll have to take more of an italian attitude to fixing it, you know. 3 hours for lunch, 3 gallons of red wine, nice food a napp. then try and fix it with a manual in a foriegn language. i think thats all thursday and friday called for.
Think fitting another engine is a bit extreme but if i had to fit a motor it'd be a yamaha V-Max motor, maybe when i win the lottery.
I'm sure you'll get it sorted soon.