Clutch switch

[jimtech]

I've owned my Rap for a year now and love it, apart from the 3K mapping stumbles. After reading the forums here it would seem that this can often be linked to the clutch switch, I've investigated mine and it would seem that the previous owner of the bike has cut both wires leading to it and linked them together - Does this mean I'm constantly running the "wrong" or the "right" map? Should I disconnect them?

[Si RAPTOR]

I believe this would mean that you are currently running the map for when the cluthch is pulled in. There is a chap called Wrecker who has wired in a manual switch so that when it comes to starting her up (Clutch pulled in) you can switch it over manually. Once started you can then switch it back.

I wouldn't bother fitting a new clutch switch as they are a pain in the arse, subject to water infiltration when riding in the rain and also give quite violent snatchy power delivery when pulling away quickly ( this latter problem occurs when the switch is worn and causes violent wheelies!)

Cheers Si

[wreckah]

hi jim, yes, bridging the clutch switch is a bad idea, you're constantly running the wrong map. On many bikes this gives bad stumbling on cold map...

[jimtech]

cheers guys, the switch has definitely been bridged with the two wires leading to it spliced together - explains the 3K misfire for the last year! I think I'll connect a MotoX waterproof kill switch mounted on the bars. Press that with the starter button and away we go!

[Si RAPTOR]

The motoX kill switch sounds a great idea... might even put it one one of the frame tubes for additional theft protection!?

Glad to be of help mate

Si

[CagedEvil]

I've had my bike (Raptor 1000) for 2 years and have always struggled with the 'stumbles when cold' issue. I had noted that the clutch switch seemed to work with very little pull on the lever and thought that maybe it was sometimes between two worlds when riding (ie oscillating between maps). Having read some posts here and on other related sites I decided to investigate. Initially I simply disconnect the push-lock fitting, unscrewed the switch barrel from the lever and then temporarily taped the plastic plunger in after starting. This still didn't seem 100% effective. However, when I did the job properly and bought a cheapie on/off push switch (from Dick Smiths Electronics - Oz only) it has completely solved the cold/stumbling problem! VERY HAPPY CAMPER!!. In trying to fix the stumbling I had spent many hours poring over sites and many dollars getting valves, TB, TPS checked/adjusted. I've had my PCII in/out, fiddled with PC settings, checked HT cables and coil connections - none of this had any real effect.
In short - replace your clutch switch with a manual device (don't bridge). The switch probably works OK to begin but not after the nylon/plastic plunger wears resulting in activation of the switch at little/no lever pull.

[jimtech]

Yep, Exactly the same experience - got valve clearances and HT's checked with no change to the misfire. I've now got a kill switch from a MX bike discretely wired in on top frame tube near headstock (sitting on some rubber insulation to prevent it shorting on frame) and 3K stumbles completely cleared - Also a useful extra anti theft device!

[zorro]

Hi all,

I thought the clutch switch when pulled in was only required for starting the engine if the bike was in gear (with side stand up) as a saftey measure, as the plastic plunger thing wears would'nt it become further and further away from the lever thereby causing less of a problem.

I can imagine if the clutch lever was'nt properly adjusted and flopping back and forth it could smack against the plunger and cause the described stumbling problem. When the lever is pulled to change gear and engages the switch does which ever gear map it's in change to the neutural map.

Hope this is'nt too confusing, I'm confused, just trying to understand what this bloody switch actually does.

Regards, zorro