My ideas for more HP came from trawling a lot on SV forums, first I ruled out a can swap, Ive had noisy bikes all my life up to the Rap, now I dont get Scotlands wildlife running panicking across the road at a throttle blip, neighbours with kids still wave in a friendly style, I kind of like the Stealth element. And its good Stainlees Steel and it says Lafranconi on it which i like the sound of. Downside , heavy, upside it fits well and is strong. Some bolt on cans leave the claw bits hanging in fresh air, looks crap to me.
When "tuning" its best to alter one thing at a time, if you went for your recipe of Airbox mods, jet changes and can/cam swap you would need a big box of jets and a couple of days dyno time to get it running right.
I didnt fancy new High comp pistons , my motor used no oil and I wanted to keep that feature, so Gen 2 cam swap it was, this has no effects on carburation if you leave the rest stock.
Stock is trick in my book.
A lot of the US forums mention carb mods that probably dont apply to the Rap, they had special extra stuff for emissions, needles are different and respond to shimming in the US, I reckon Cagiva fitted the same Euro spec carbs to all the 650 Raps but couldnt say for sure.
One bit you can ditch completely is the PAIR system which causes backfires on the over run, you really need the motor out for this though, it gets rid of a bout 1Kilo of plumbers nonsense .
No HP advantage but looks a lot tidier.
http://www.raptorchapter.org.uk/viewtop ... =15&t=1547
K and N filters,
cant see the point I use stock SVs.Maybe if thats all you can get.
Snorkel ectomy, naw, if you look at the work that has gone into designing and manufacturing the air box I dont see how cutting bits off can improve it ( thous may differ), the 650 snorkel leads in from a well crafted bell mouth and aims the incoming air at a cunningly crafted cone tip to minimise turbulence, I would need a lab and a dyno to improve on that.
Manufacturers learned years ago that a well designed airbox was a source of power, some GP two stroke designs started with the air box then had the chassis designed around it.
I dont think Mr Suzuki fitted it to detune the motor.
Lifted tank, naw thats an SV thing, lets out more noise , if it needed it the airfuel curve on the dyno chart would have gone richer as the revs picked up . plus raising the rap tank may cause other clearance issues with bars and such.
"This is meant as a rebuild kit, new gaskets and o-ring etc. My bike will cough and stall just off idle sometimes, and it is getting more regular lately. I have read if they sit for a while with fuel in the bowl, it ruins the o-rings, and will develop this cough. My bike sat in the bike shop for 12 months before I bought it and it's always had it. A carby balance I was hoping might sort it out, but it didn't. So while I'm sorting the cough out, may as well do the rest. "
Could be water in the fuel, internal condensation from a part empty tank can do this without leaving your bike out in the rain or washing it.
I run my float bowl drains with piped extensions, once a year drain each one into a glass jar and look for blobs.
http://www.raptorchapter.org.uk/viewtop ... =15&t=1548
I would drain your entire fuel system and start with fresh before doing open carb surgery.
You are in Oz, if the fuel had a high Alchohol content this will have evaporated in storage and left goo behind, 2 options, ride the bike a lot with clean fuel it may dissolve out the goo, or strip carbs and clean in an ultrasonic bath.
O rings,
The best thing for ruining O rings is aggressive carb cleaner, I keep that well away from rubber bits.
maybe, Ive had the float bowls on and off without issues, sometimes o rings swell a little with age, the trick for this is to put them in a freezer for an hour before re assembly
2nd hand carbs come up on e bay dead cheap , I got a pair for £20.. not used them for anything apart from learning though..
Ignition advance, I reckon I got about 2 degrees by stretching the mounting holes of the pickup plate, a simple mod if you have a dremel and a steady hand, one of the holes ends up as an open ended slot, dont know about a separate adaptor, it may dilute the pick-up signal with the offset caused by the thickness of the adaptor.
This is an easy job and takes an hour or so, bike on paddock stand, pull LHS genny cover, remove ignition pick up plate , suss engine direction by turning rear wheel forward in gear, engage brain to figure which way advances , from memory the motor rotates the same way as the wheel ie anti clock from LHS so the pickup plate has to move clockwise to advance) extend screw mounting holes into slots in ignition plate as far as poss till one breaks out the end of the plate, refit plate with a spot of loctite on each screw at slot extremity, refit gen cover, you can always put this back the way you found it if you dont like it. A lot less hassle and expense than pulling the rotor to fit an offset key.
The offset woodruff key could open up a world of sorrow when trying to do valve timing.
Cam swap, Im in the sticks in the UK and found buying from the USA was easiest, not that cheap , but HP nearly always costs something. ( from old posts 8 BHP gain for £250)
If there are breakers handy then a dead injected Sv would be a suitable donor.
Heres a linky info, not the one I used which I cant find now,( have it printed off in the shed)
http://www.twfracing.com/vbforums/showt ... gen-engine
Suspension mods have been gone over a lot here.
Summarizing. Front end I used Maxton (UK) cost around £400, gives me adjustable rebound by a screw in the top nuts.
Others have replaced the damper guts with others type R1 from memory. Do a search on this site loads of info.
Cheapest is to change the oil for a thinner rating but it doesnt get rid of all issues.
Rear end, Hagon Monoshock about £300, I dont fancy taking a chance on some other 2nd hand shock but others have had good results. Hagon do a rebuild of there own units for £100.
Rear geometry, someone on Ebay offers triangles which lift the rear and pin down the front. Says 1000 here, 650 is the same.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cagiva-Raptor ... 35b6c98fe5
This is good value for the amount of result it gives , anyone that like to scratch on B road twisties needs this sort of mod, I have a "Baines limk" from baines racing in the UK, it was twice the price , does the same thing and was hands down the best £100 i ever spent on the bike.