Raptor Chapter

Wouldnt these affect the braking?
more weight to the front,so I guess that the wheel would block easier.
Also when turning,wouldnt more weight to the front make it more prone to a low side?

If you have access to a workshop the dimensions of the triangles are on here somewhere.

Dante wrote:55 years agoWouldnt these affect the braking?
more weight to the front,so I guess that the wheel would block easier.
Also when turning,wouldnt more weight to the front make it more prone to a low side?

The handling improvements are due to the different angles and not weight on the front wheel, I think you would have to raise the rear by a lot more than 30mm to transfer any significant weight to the front wheel.

So by raising the rear you reduce the rake angle?and make it more agile and easy to turn?
Yes I have access to workshop so the dimensions would be useful.
Is it an easy task to replace the triangles?

Yes, it's very easy, and the bonus is, you can check/grease the pivots at the same time.

Triangle Info

Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot!

With a quick look,I just have to make the left one and the tail jacks up 25mm?

You have to make two identical triangles, the best way, is to get two pieces of metal (aluminium or stainless) and mark out your 3 holes on one piece, clamp them together and drill one hole, fit a bolt into this hole and drill hole 2 and fit another bolt before drilling hole number 3, then shape your triangles, then fit to your bike.

Thanks a lot.
I guess stainless steel should be better and stronger.How thick should it be?
What is the diameter of the bolts?

Doesnt look hard...
What other parts are needed?I guess o rings for the bolts of the suspension etc?
Would there be any problem with the chain?cause I saw that it might come close to the exhaust

Thanks for your help!
I'll read later the link you gave more carefully.

I used 6mm for mine and if you have some small enough clamps mark 1 plate clamp them together and drill both at the same time. The lock nuts should really be changed but i didnt i just put a little threadlock on the threads. The seals are standard but couldnt tell you the sizes. Take it apart to have a look and see whats needed. The chain may hit the exhaust when really slack but i didnt have a problem.

Thanks a lot.I don't think I need any more info.
Just what material did you used?stainless steel?
I'm already starting the search for materials etc.

So I read the whole thread.
Since I am novice I think that the mod with the triangles is enough for me.
I'm thinking of jacking up the rear just 20mm.
Just to make the difference and not affect the bike a lot.
what do you think?

Yup, I made my own custom ones to suit as per the diagrams ish.

5/6 mm ally plate will be fine, SS is just a bit overkill really!

if your forks are already dropped in yokes then jacking up may be a step to far, so once jacked up check your fork height and adjust if its a bit twitchy.

Crap Tartan wrote:55 years agoif your forks are already dropped in yokes then jacking up may be a step to far, so once jacked up check your fork height and adjust if its a bit twitchy.

Could you please explain that to me?
I haven't done anything to the forks.And I want to avoid to.
You think that since I don't want to change the fork height ,I shouldn't jack up the rear too?

Right, are your forks in the standard height in the yokes?
just coz you aint changed anything dont mean a previous owner hasnt?
Dropping forks slightly through the yokes alters the steering geometry and makes the bike turn faster.
Jacking up the back does a very similar function so if you have both done then that may be a step too far in altering the geometry and make the bike twitchy and unstable.
Just check your forks are in standard position before you start changing anything at the rear. if so then altering the rear a little (20-25mm) shouldnt cause any issues in itself.
Once done be sure to set static and dynamic sag of both ends as you will have altered geometry and thus suspension settings.