PAIRS removal
-
- On the Road
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 11 years ago
PAIRS removal
Hi everyone I've just been looking at removing the PAIRS from my raptor,but I'm just wondering if it will make much difference to the running of the the bike and will it still pass the MOT.The bike has standard cans on but I've cut out the guts and put a perforated tube in with wadding packed around it,so it's like a straight through end can.cheers
-
- APM
- Posts: 908
- Joined: 13 years ago
- Location: Cumbria
Re: PAIRS removal
I have had mine removed for a few years and havnt had trouble getting motd
Bit of a Muppet
Re: PAIRS removal
I am thinking of doing the pair valve removal soon. Tidies up the engine and loose half a kilo of junk, i did notice the motor on my last bike sounded much "cleaner" with the valve gone. Actually i would like to know if the airbox has to come off and is it just a matter of disconnect and plug up airbox ? I have the pair plates to go on the motor side! Will it throw a fault code in ecu if disconnected ? Thanks
Re: PAIRS removal
Not done so up till now on mine. Passed 2 MOT's as well, with no comment.ozzraptor wrote:I am thinking of doing the pair valve removal soon. Tidies up the engine and loose half a kilo of junk, i did notice the motor on my last bike sounded much "cleaner" with the valve gone. Actually i would like to know if the airbox has to come off and is it just a matter of disconnect and plug up airbox ? I have the pair plates to go on the motor side! Will it throw a fault code in ecu if disconnected ? Thanks
-
- On the Road
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 11 years ago
Re: PAIRS removal
hi thanks for that,ive read somewhere on here or the web that you need to keep the solinoid connected to stop a fault code showing?can you get something to plug in instead of the solinoid.
Re: PAIRS removal
on the sv1000 you could buy a kit and in that kit you got a resistor (plug and play) to fool the ECU that the slenoid was still connected so the FI light doesn't come on.raptornutt wrote:hi thanks for that,ive read somewhere on here or the web that you need to keep the solinoid connected to stop a fault code showing?can you get something to plug in instead of the solinoid.
Re: PAIRS removal
Hi,
Don't think I found a solenoid when I removed mine, just made sure I blanked off all hoses.
Don't think I found a solenoid when I removed mine, just made sure I blanked off all hoses.
Re: PAIRS removal
thanksMiz wrote:Hi,
Don't think I found a solenoid when I removed mine, just made sure I blanked off all hoses.
-
- APM
- Posts: 908
- Joined: 13 years ago
- Location: Cumbria
Re: PAIRS removal
my memory isnt very good but i think there was a solenoid to feed vacuum onto the diaphragm valve but i think iirc that i left the solenoid connected and removed every thing else. I made a plastic plug for the bottom of the airbox and just used old bolts(or anything the correct diameter with a plain portion) to blank the hoses and diamond shaped plates for blanking at the exhaust headers(the rear one is abit fiddly)
Some people have suggested drilling and tapping the hole in the head and using an allen screw with a copper washer(i wasnt sure i liked this idea as i have no idea how thick the head is and wouldnt like to risk it)
Some people have suggested drilling and tapping the hole in the head and using an allen screw with a copper washer(i wasnt sure i liked this idea as i have no idea how thick the head is and wouldnt like to risk it)
Bit of a Muppet
Re: PAIRS removal
Is the solenoid the big heavy alien thingy with hall the pipes running into it ?shedmonkey wrote:my memory isnt very good but i think there was a solenoid to feed vacuum onto the diaphragm valve but i think iirc that i left the solenoid connected and removed every thing else. I made a plastic plug for the bottom of the airbox and just used old bolts(or anything the correct diameter with a plain portion) to blank the hoses and diamond shaped plates for blanking at the exhaust headers(the rear one is abit fiddly)
Some people have suggested drilling and tapping the hole in the head and using an allen screw with a copper washer(i wasnt sure i liked this idea as i have no idea how thick the head is and wouldnt like to risk it)
-
- APM
- Posts: 908
- Joined: 13 years ago
- Location: Cumbria
Re: PAIRS removal
No the solenoid is a smallish black thing with 2 small tubes and a electrical plug on the top.
I think the thing you are thinking of is the diaphragm valve which is one of the bits you can take off.
I think the thing you are thinking of is the diaphragm valve which is one of the bits you can take off.
Bit of a Muppet
Re: PAIRS removal
ah thanks, then i will probabally leave the solenoid in place then.shedmonkey wrote:No the solenoid is a smallish black thing with 2 small tubes and a electrical plug on the top.
I think the thing you are thinking of is the diaphragm valve which is one of the bits you can take off.
Re: PAIRS removal
I made a plate out of 6mm aluminium and bolted that in place on the rear,shedmonkey wrote:
Some people have suggested drilling and tapping the hole in the head and using an allen screw with a copper washer(i wasnt sure i liked this idea as i have no idea how thick the head is and wouldnt like to risk it)
but tapped the head on the front.
Last edited by Miz 10 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Re: PAIRS removal question
Hi guys, so i removed most of the pair system , blocked off the front tube to airbox and 6mm alloy plates at the cylinders. Have a couple of spares if anyone needs a set. The only tube i am not sure about is the small one at bottom of pair valve, does this just get blocked off as well . Thanks for any info in advance
-
- APM
- Posts: 908
- Joined: 13 years ago
- Location: Cumbria