Raptor Chapter

Hi All,

I bought a Raptor 1000 a month ago. It's year 2000. After sorting out a few things I started using it for commuting in London, and got baffled by the 29 mpg I got out of it. (I've got the reserve light flashing around 88 miles...) I looked up the specs. on the Net, and found that it's supposed to be 39ish mpg on average. I'm not sure if the 29 is realistic under these conditions? (I've got a pair of Beuwolf cans on it...)
I would have though that even for city conditions it sounds a bit crap for a fuel injected bike...
Opinions? Experiences?
Cheers

Hello, it sounds maybe a bit low but I only get to about 90 or 95 before reserve and I drive like miss daisy

Urban riding, I'm getting something like 8litres/100km, on highway mileage is better. I don't know about your mpg...
Ones run out of fuel just under 200km on tripmeter.

I get around 120-130 miles to reserve light normal riding and a bit less if I`m pushing on.

Worst i ever got was around 80 but that was on a track day!!!! LOL

I usually get the reserve light flash at about 100 miles but have noticed its getting a bit less , 90 ish last time. Or I may be rideing a faster !

Hmmm. 29 mpg is 9.47 l/100km. (This is how I prefer to measure as well, but I thought I'd post the silly imperial unit on a UK site... )
Anyway; the difference between 8 and 9.5 is massive if we consider that both are "urban" values. I guess I'm gonna have to check the plugs; they will do justice.

Any ideas what typically the reason is for extreme consumption? (My brakes haven't seized). This is my first modern enough bike to have all the shitty electrical sensors, fuel-injector, and ECU... (Where are the good old days when you could just take a screwdriver and a 10mm spanner, and you were sorted for any emergencies...? )

I've recently changed my commute from 10 miles to 25 miles (single way) and the consumption went up to 45 mpg with the light coming on at around 105 miles rather than around 95 miles. The road conditions & speeds were pretty much the same and the only difference I could put it down to was that the engine gets a chance to really warm up and there was much less, ahem, sharp acceleration. The latter really kills mpg especially round town but this doesn't really explain 29 mpg.

I have read somewhere that incorrect valve clearances can bugger up fuel consumption, especially if the exhaust clearances are tight. And they do tend to tighten rather than open.

Andy B

In the meantime I found that my mileage (7k-something) asks for a couple of new plugs. (I don't assume the valve-clearances to be out of range after so little usage, but will keep that in mind, thx.) I'm wondering how much the cold engine affects it (my commute is 7 miles; it hardly has a chance to warm up properly, so I guess that doesn't help fuel economy either...)

Seven miles is about the worst for fuel economy, I recall my last job was that distance and it was the poorest fuel consumption I've had in the years I've had her.
If the bike has only done 7000 in total (if I read that right) then it's just getting to be a settled engine, and 'proper' run in. I would guess the clearances would be ok, but effecting a full service about now might be good for it. Seems amazing to me that any V/Raptor 1000 has that few miles considering how many years it is since the last one rolled out.
I'm getting about 9-10 miles to the litre just now, more on a longer/motorway run (I don't do gallons and the tach says miles not km) standard fuel but occasionally using opti/power types.

Ooops sorry, Hello Jacko and welcome to the asylum

Thank you! Yeah; I used to ride about 6000 miles a year (before I moved to the UK, that is; it's a lot more difficult to find roads with light traffic around London to get out for a proper ride... ) I still do like 3000 a year; I was really surprised that such old bikes with a mileage like this are still around... (And I saw another one with roughly the same odo-reading before I got this!)

I'm wondering if the Beowulf cans caused the previous owner to adjust the engine management which might be affecting your consumption?
Which part of London are you at? Someone on here might be able to advise on a decent run out depending on the area, sadly most of this little island has busy roads and the capital is the worst (I avoid the place)

I'm wondering how much the cold engine affects it (my commute is 7 miles; it hardly has a chance to warm up properly

I've never liked driving an engine straight from cold so I always let him run on the choke whilst I'm faffing around zipping up jackets, earplugging, putting neck tubes & helmets on etc etc. And by the time I've finished we're up to a least 50c and he'll then be up to temperature after only a mile or so.

OK; plugs replaced. They weren't particularly black; the electrodes were fine, but the bottom I mean the top depending on how you look "ring" had some carbon deposit. I believe it's just due to the short distance commuting, so I guess that's how much it is, then... ) No error codes in the computer, either, BTW.

I don't believe the previous owner did any adjustments when installing the cans (he said he hadn't even changed oil in it since he got her, so I don't assume so much care from him....)

I live in Lewisham (I'm wondering if there are any raptorchapter runs organized, or just an informal weekend ride every once in a while?)

Re. the "let it warm up before you ride it"-topic: according to the best of my knowledge, you're better off riding it straight away on moderate RPMs. If the oil is cold, then the pistons run too slow near the top- and bottom-end of their way (especially when the engine is just idling) so the oil-film between the piston and the cylinder wall tend to "collapse". The mid-range rpms are optimal, because it still doesn't put pressure on the engine, and warms it up faster. Avoid aggressive changes in the load, though (no sudden throttle opening, or hard engine-brake). I.e. using the big torque is what damages a cold engine, not mid-range rpm.

Jacko wrote:55 years ago//snip//
Re. the "let it warm up before you ride it"-topic: according to the best of my knowledge, you're better off riding it straight away on moderate RPMs. If the oil is cold, then the pistons run too slow near the top- and bottom-end of their way (especially when the engine is just idling) so the oil-film between the piston and the cylinder wall tend to "collapse". The mid-range rpms are optimal, because it still doesn't put pressure on the engine, and warms it up faster. Avoid aggressive changes in the load, though (no sudden throttle opening, or hard engine-brake). I.e. using the big torque is what damages a cold engine, not mid-range rpm.

Yup heard all this before, I'll still warm her up to near 60 before any ride, I'm not an engineer nor mechanic but I was advised to warm this particular engine when I bought her from the shop - and change the oil every 2000 to 3000miles so I have, seems all right so far.

I've looked up where Lewisham might be, and seems to me the best way would be to go south and head for the coast, but the Sussex contingent will know better than I.

What fuel are you using? Mine seems to get MUCH better mileage out of 95 RON as compared to 98 RON, I've been told that "95 burns better" down here. I do throw in injector cleaner now and again, given that the 95 blends don't have the added detergents and stuff that the premium-priced 98s get.