Raptor Chapter

As you might know I had a tiny accident where my bike dropped in a corner and I had to fix several thing (such as the footbrake pedal). Unfortunately one thing I haven't been able to fix yet. While I ride with steady gas (let's say 3000rpm in 3rd) the bike now and then feels like it's holding in, and then goes again. You can even notice the rpm drop/rise at 3000rpm while in neutral. When the bike's cold it's even worse, makes it a wild bull to ride for a few moments, then I take back gas and on again, that usually solves it. Also when I ride like 70mph I don't really notice it, it's more in the lower speeds. It's specially annoying and even dangerous in a corner, as you can imagine. I've also let it run freely with the clutch squeezed, I don't notice it then so I don't suspect the drive train.

I hoped it would be fixed after maintenance that was already scheduled with a specialist, but unfortunately it didn't. The following things have been done:
- Shim buckets preventively replaced (in case of cracks)
- Valve clearance fixed
- Emission stuff that routes exhaust fumes back into the air intake was removed/shut down
- Spark plugs checked, look brand new
- Air filter checked, also looks brand new
- Yoshi mapping for better performance loaded into ECM

All these procedures at once make it tough to troubleshoot the issue, although (looking back) I am pretty sure I noticed the problem already before I brought it to the specialist. I have also discussed the issue with the specialist, a few things have been done so far:
- Tip over sensor checked, looks fine and works
- Put a mixture of injectorcleaner in a full tank

Looking back, that last action with the injectorcleaner seemed to have made it run smoother. Now that I am running plain gasoline again, the trouble is back again. So I have trying to make a list of things that I can do, to rule things out:
- Have the injectors properly cleaned
- Replace spark plugs even though they look good?

I'm open to suggestions

This sounds like its almost certainly the common problem on 1000 raptors.

Read the topic "TPS reset" started by me some years ago and you will eventually get to the black box fix.

Its a long read but its an easy and cheap fix and hasnt failed to sort out the same issues as you describe including me!

Thanks for the tip Tartan! I'm just wondering how a smooth running engine can change like that and that I now seem to need to put a resister between two lines of the ECM? Also I only ride at good warm weather, so I'm not sure this is it?

By reading your topic I did get an idea that my idle might be too low, so the coming weekend I will check that first

I seem to remember mine doing this at one point and new plugs sorted it, might be worth a try

My engine was smooth everywhere else in the rev range but if not over 85 engine temp then it would stutter around the 3k mark, fine if you can keep your engine about that figure but if not...............

Try doing everything else and go over all that has already been done but I will bet you will end up back at " putting a resistor between two lines of the ecm" sooner rather than later!! Lol

Best of luck whatever you try...........

If the revs are dropping off alot I'd check plugs and plug caps, I had similar with a cracked front plug cap.

If the revs are dropping off alot I'd check plugs and plug caps, I had similar with a cracked front plug cap.

I was going to say the exact same thing. I had a front plug cap that played (wet or dry) & in the dark you could even see it arcing & crackling across to the cyliner head. Mucho WD40 sorted it so far but haven't heard a murmer since replacing the cap.

I agree normally would look at plugs and caps but the OP said it's happening around the 3k mark and worse when cold so that's why am pretty sure it's black box territory........

Thanks for the great advices, definitely helpful! Maybe we shouldn't focus on the 3000rpm level since that was just an example, it also does this at 6000rpm but you can feel it better at lower speeds/rpm's. I forgot to mention that, sorry!

When it runs violently it does feel like it's on 1 cylinder. So that could mean a bad connection, maybe moist in the (front) cylinder/spark plug? Is there any way to reach that without having to drain the coolant?

So that could mean a bad connection, maybe moist in the (front) cylinder/spark plug? Is there any way to reach that without having to drain the coolant?

No need to drain the coolant. Just remove the lower LHS radiator mounting bolt and swing the rad forward and up should give you (just) enough room. If not the remove the upper ones as well and support the rad out of the way.

Make sure the plug cap is seated correctly with the arrow pointing forward and note there is a hole on the LHS of the head that is (I believe?) the drain for the spark plug cavity. A ferret around in there with a stiff wire is also worth while.

All of these replies are important, but I note your suggestion that injector cleaner had a beneficial but short-lived effect.

I'm wondering if this could be the first instance I've heard of where cheapo fuel has messed-up the inside of a nylon tank? It certainly happens with carburated bikes, the dissolved material coming out of solution and blocking the carb jets, especially the idle jet. I'm working on my second Cagiva with that problem, a River 500 single, the first being a delicious Canyon 500. The only cure is to clean everything fuel-related and line the tank with Caswell epoxy to keep fuel away from the nylon.

I've assumed that the high pressures involved with injection make this less likely to be a problem, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the Raptor, Gran Canyon and Planet. Fortunately, the Alazzurra is immune to that, having a steel tank. At least rust is visible!

Nick, Cagiva addict

So I was smart enough to fill my tank completely before I decided to take it off and replace the fuel filter So I needed 2 cans to drain all the gasoline (which I wasn't really sure how to do, but disconnecting the return line and all came floating out lol).

The gas pump seems to be in pretty good shape, apart from the oxidant on the bottom part of the array:



I was able to brush off the white oxidant, but a bit op brownish kinda rust is still there:



The workshop manual states that in this condition it needs replacement. What do you guys say? Is this repairable?

I also found out that there was an amount of (I think) silicon to maybe prevent from leaking?



Is this normal and do I need to reapply or should I just take it off? The seal seems in pretty good shape.

Also, I've taken out the spark plugs. They look good, but both are very different (brand and type), so I suppose that doesn't help for a smooth run. I am going to replace those for a set of Iridium. Any suggestions on these?

I've checked the spark plug cabs, these look in good shape, no corrosion or cracks or what so ever. I've unscrewed the cabs from the wires, looks good inside as well. For now I've decided to put them back an not replace them yet, unless you suggest otherwise?

Next week I will dig a bit deeper to take out the injectors.

Your findings certainly demonstrate the presence of plenty of moisture in the tank in the past. Might it have got in around the filler cap?

If I was you, I'd brush the rust off, treat those bits with phosphoric acid and put them back, taking care to keep water out of the tank. You'd be hard-pressed to replace bits like that IMO.

Nick

I found a new one for 75 euro's, since the filter alone is already 39 why not change the whole thing?

Still debating on preventively swapping the spark plug cabs, will this be beneficial without changing the wires as well?

Still debating on preventively swapping the spark plug cabs, will this be beneficial without changing the wires as well?

Without trying to sway you either way the front cap on mine also looked perfectly ok but replacing (just) it made a difference. I believe you have to swap out the coils to swap the wires which are, of course, suitably inaccessible.

I've never bothered with (the price of) iridium plugs and have always used plain old NGK CR8EKs with no hassle what so ever. Even well beyond the recommended swap out mileage.