650 vs 1000?

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nickst4
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650 vs 1000?

Post by nickst4 »

Not a new topic I'm sure, but does anyone here have significant experience of both the 650 and 1000 Raptors and care to share? I have a very nice 1K and it's impressive in a muscular way but I wonder if the 650 is possibly more friendly? Curiosity on my part mostly, but my Missus is much less impressed by power and doesn't share my enthusiasm for taller bikes such as the Gran Canyon or the Hyperstrada. Besides, she much prefers lighter bikes such as the '85 650 Alazzurra, though that steers like a barge/older Ducati, and I feel her biking horizons should expand a bit!

Maybe the 650 Rappy just feels a lot like the thousand but with less horses and a reduced thirst?

Nick (always looking for a new toy: :lol: )
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by shebee »

The best solution i can offer is get a 650 as well as the 1000 then you can make a judgment based on side by side test rides :evil: .... and there is no such thing as too many bikes! :ride:
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by Trevor68 »

The correct number of motorcycles is always n+1. :nod:
“Motorcycling is not, of itself, dangerous. It is however, extremely unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence, or stupidity.”
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by Aussiejoe »

I've had a 2001 650 Raptor (carby) for 8 years and recently purchased a Navigator. I've had my licence for 29 years and I'd always lean towards the 650 as an experienced rider. The reality is that the extra horsepower you'll never utilize, you'll just burn more fuel, tyres and brakes for no gain. My 650 is awesome in the twisties and there is a speed limit. I personally would steer towards a 650IE (fuel injected) as down the track carby sv650 parts will be harder to find as opposed to injected sv650 parts.
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by nickst4 »

shebee wrote: 4 years ago The best solution i can offer is get a 650 as well as the 1000 then you can make a judgment based on side by side test rides :evil: .... and there is no such thing as too many bikes! :ride:
I obey oh Master! Sorry; Mistress. A decent 650ie in blue awaits me... :evil:

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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by shebee »

nickst4 wrote: 4 years ago
I obey oh Master! Sorry; Mistress. A decent 650ie in blue awaits me... :evil:

Nick
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by nickst4 »

OK, the deed has been done! a beautiful blue 650 is now in the garage, being attended-to. Riding it home made me realise how punchy a motor it has, albeit far too noisy with the MIVV cans the PO fitted. However, the rear suspension is virtually solid so I need to dismantle all the links and maybe play with the shock. Off comes the nasty 'tail-tidy' (why do they call a bit of bent metal that, when it replaces a shapely OEM piece that does the job much better and carries all the lights required by the regulations?), and the spare OEM exhausts sound much nicer to me. Good bits are the delicious handling and, being the ie version, it has a little screen which protects up to very illegal speeds! Dianne is looking forward to her first ride and I think we will both enjoy the bike.

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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by Aussiejoe »

I can nearly bet the wishbone bearings on the rear shock are destroyed, seems to be a common problem. The sizes are in the parts list http://img.webike.net/sys_images/genuin ... 0-2005.pdf
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by andybaggies »

V.nice and even though Italian bikes should really only be red I reckon it looks pretty good in blue. :)

And if you do replace the suspension link bearings it'd be good to know the part numbers & where you sourced them from. Same if you change the pins & seals.

I grease mine regularly (ooo er missus) but they are showing signs of wear and I'd be much happier replacing them before the winter sets in.

Cheers,

Andy B
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by nickst4 »

Aussiejoe wrote: 4 years ago I can nearly bet the wishbone bearings on the rear shock are destroyed, seems to be a common problem. The sizes are in the parts list http://img.webike.net/sys_images/genuin ... 10-2005.pd
Got it in one! The swingarm bearings are fine, but the front bearing of the link arm is seized solid onto the bolt. Maybe the bush at the bottom of the shock needs attention too. I must look in the Technical section for any tips on how to remove the link arm, but at least I'm happy that the bike will be more comfortable to ride when the bearings are renewed. Thanks Joe!

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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by andybaggies »

for any tips on how to remove the link arm
Nothing too complex here - just follow your mechanical instinct. Wheel out which both gives you a chance to check it's bearings & also gives a lot more space to work in. Plenty of your favoured release fluid on the bolts, leave for an hour whilst you make a note of how the triangles are oriented BEFORE you loosen them & then whip 'em out.
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by nickst4 »

Thanks Andy, but the problem is much more tricky than just gaining access.

The sleeve of the forward needle-roller bearing of the link arm is seized solid on the bolt, which can only come out in one direction because it threads into a lug on the frame. The needles themselves are now just about free to move so I could force grease in there and leave it like that, but the rear needle-roller is breaking up too so that link arm must come off to do the job properly. As you say, releasing fluid is going to have to work, plus a heat gun on the arm. Using mega-effort on the bolt to slide the sleeve off is going to risk the thread in the frame lug. It could be a long job!

Nick
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by andybaggies »

seized solid
Oh, rs.... I think I see what you mean now :( BTW the bolt sits inside a pin which makes contact with the bearings. Is the bolt seized in the pin or the pin seized to the bearings? And lets hope the bolt isn't seized in the (frame) thread too. Double rs

From what I recall there is a similar bolt/pin/bearing fitment to the swingarm for the the top hole of the triangles.

Plusgas & ACF-50 will be your besties here.

Have fun :)
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by nickst4 »

Hi Andy,

The bolt is seized in the pin. So far, I've used the frame thread to act as an extractor using a hammer gun, but now the bolt is clear of the thread, It's still locked solid. Carl Harrison pointed out that if the frame thread was damaged, there was enough clearance for a nut on a longer bolt. That's an option but the thing is still resisting my efforts despite super release fluid and drifts from the other side. I'd put a puller on the bolt head if there was room. I expect it will come out eventually, leaving me to source new bearings and pins. Carl suggests Aprilia parts may be suitable. The needle rollers and seals are likely standard items, but the pins will be specials I'll bet.

We'll have to transfer this topic to the Technical section in due course. Raptor owners Need To Know!

Nick
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Re: 650 vs 1000?

Post by andybaggies »

It's still locked solid.
& thrice I say rs... :(

Is there any space to get a fine cutting disk between the link arm and frame lug to cut the bolt in half?

The worst thing about these sort of jobs is the thought that all this hassle could have easily being prevented by a little bit of maintenance.
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