Raptor Chapter

shebee wrote: ↑4 years ago Are we at the point where you discover the petrol tank has swelled and is a bitch to get back in place? (Make sure all the wires and stuff and located properly under the tank or it will! never go on!)

Does that really happen? Never had a problem, just that it fouls the ignition barrel unless I listen the 10mm's at the back

So.. 2 productive days.

Received this, seemed pointless buying a normal paper one for £11 When this 'New old stock' was £20.




Snapped these


Removed these


Threaded this


Stuck that in there, spring washer on. I was going to just thread lock it but decided spring washer & see how it fairs.. wouldn't like to try removing it with thread lock after it's heated up a few times.. but then again, I don't know anything about engineering.


The rear one was just as rusty so I didn't fancy it, need to bike for work Thursday & knowing my luck it would've been a pain in the arse.


Blocked it with a big bolt instead.


Got my snapped bolt out, blowtorch & mole grips got it, had to go back and forth for a while but it came, also cleaned the threads up while the tap was out.

Noticed this hose was wearing through..

So.. Did the rear exhaust pairs. Took the regulator off & the bottom nut was easy, the top nut I got out with a 10mm spanner from the other side, fit my hand by the shock.




This is where the bodge started..




I've never tapped something with a ratchet before,
But it worked.. spring washer & M8 bolt in.

Those are the pulsed air bleeds, right? Blocking them is one way to slow the coffee-coloured corrosion on the stainless exhausts, not that that is a major consideration on your bike!

Nick

Some top imaginative work going on there - I like your style.

One of these days I'm gonna junk the pairs system....

I only did it to stop the backfiring, I imagine there was a leak somewhere with how much it did it.

Solved!

Reminds me of my SV, which I restored and still own... When I got it, it was three years old. Yeah, you read that right. 3!

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php? ... +bares+all

Eventful ride to work this morning, first time i've been caught in a real down poor.. about a mile from work it starts mis-firing, running on 1 pot i think, top speed was 40 ish. So when i got to the traffic lights around the corner from work i kept the revs up to prevent it stalling.. set off bogging, bogging bogging, wide open throttle, Boom it took off, nearly threw me off & then started running like crap again..

Scary stuff! I think i needs to get some vaseline around some electrics.

Scary stuff! I think i needs to get some vaseline around some electrics.

Yeah not good and as you say electrics have got to be the culprit.

I've had similar trouble with the front pot whereby, in the dark, you could see it sparking from the plug cap to the head. The HT lead can also sometimes be routed quite tightly.

Liberally spraying with WD40 sorted this for a week or two when it finally failed & permanently ran on one pot which was traced to a failed coil. Replaced the coil, lead & cap and have had no more trouble. Dunno whether the sparking was the cause of the coil failure.

BTW - I've mentioned before to check the front pot plug drain hole and its also worthwhile checking the plug cap seal which needs to orientated correctly with the arrow pointing downwards.

Andy B

Hi Andy, I cleared the drain hole the first time you mentioned it, just checked it again and still clear.

The rubber cap had the arrow facing up! So I've turned that round and there's plenty of slack in the lead itself.

It's all fun and games.

MOT due in 30 odd days, Bought a chinese hydraulic banjo brake light switch, fitted it. The switch worked for all of 3 presses on the lever. So that was a waste of time, But the fresh fluid on the system has made a massive improvement, the rear brakes never worked so good.. too good in fact for a the first few miles i locked the back wheel up.

So i decided to bleed the front brakes up, clean the RES as it was full of crap, Rusty safety screw was seized in.. pain. Here's Some pictures..









Front brakes were ok, but now they're spot on.

Anyway coming back to the MOT, Needs a rear brake switch, front tyre, Possible headrace bearings, they're a little 'rocky' when im holding the front brake, noticed when i did the brakes.

So we will see what it fails on & go from there.

So was your Rappie dredged up from the sea?

I must say I'm very impressed by your dedication to this bike! To me, the sight of so much corrosion is more than enough to cause major depression. Rust of such lovely components is a dagger to my heart, and it's not as if the bike has survived two world wars! I'd have put the bike down very quietly...

Whatever, it's a good job there are persons such as you around!

Nick

Yeah it does look bad! But it still goes and stops .. for now.

Probably take too much to get it right, I mean the corrosion on the forks & exhaust cans is really bad, it's pitted to hell.

I do have some zx10r forks in the garage though & powder coating is fairly cheap where I go

A little bit of MOT prep. I thought the headrace bearing were clanking but it turns out my front wheel bearing is! Fair bit of play in that

Rear brake light switch, still..

Forks have a misting of oil.

Front tread depth is 2.1mm/1.9mm

Booked in 8th Oct 1pm.

I'm not sure weather to sort what I know is off, or wait to see if anything more severe is wrong with it