TPS reset

[AZ]

All sounds good to me and should work.Luckily i have never had any glitch other than the one caused by the clutch switch and that was easilly sorted. I`ll bear all this in mind though as i think it will be a matter of when ,not if i get this 3k glitch.I don`t know if i am right here but i seem to remember reading something once about the temp sensor reading helps to tell the ecu how rich the engine should run and that is just one of the aspects of tuning that is tackled by car tuning chips.What i`m getting at is that the lower the temp the richer the mixture and when hot the mixture leans out to get it past emmisions tests.The chips supposedly richens up the top end which improves power and driveabillity by fooling the ecu into thinking it`s cold and need`s more fuel.There`s obviously more to it than this but only testing will give any clues as to how the mixture will be affected.Good luck ,i`ll watch this with interest.

[Crap Tartan]

Well got the bits built the box and fitted it to the bike, no problems so far and did some testing in the gargae and all looked good.

Finally got some decent weather today so have spent some time road testing with the box fitted and alternately trying it with it switched on and then trying the same thing with it off.

A total success!!!

When the box is switched off the running is exactly the same as before, 3k glitch there all the way up until the mid 80`s are hit in temp.

I start the bike with the switch off, the clock temp readout doesnt kick in til it hits 20 degC. Start as normal with choke to get it warmed. Once the temp readout hits 25 then you can switch the box on and it reads around 74 due to the parallel resistance in the box which is now in circuit. The 3k glitch is still present at this point even with the box on but as it warms and reaches around 50 degC actual temp then with the box on its reading 82 ish so from this point the 3k glitch is history. Smooth all the way up in every gear. Once you are up to actual normal running temp 80-85, the box makes the readout from 95-102 so it never drops out of the good fuelling map so the 3k glitch never comes back in.
If you get the bike even hotter (and I did by sitting still after up to temp so no cooling air flow) and managed to get it to switch the fan on at 91 actual, with the box saying 105. the fan switches in and out as usual at the temps in the book and even got the bike up to 100 actual which was 113 due to the box. No warning lights or FI code came up. I dare say it would if I took it further but you have the option of switching the box off whenb you reach those kind of readings and it will revert back to actual temp from the thermostat. This should still keep you in the good fuelling zone and as you cool back down you can switch the box back in once you get down to about 80.
I have totally removed the radiator masking I had in place as it doesnt make any differance now.

I am very happy so far with the results and will keep the box wired in and continue testing.

Overall its cost less than a tenner to put together and I should never have to suffer the 3k glitch again with the bonus I dont need to wait so long to warm up before driving off, and have control that I can use on the move and it is neat and out the way.

Also it is adjustable to compensate for us all having slightly differant bikes that dont all have the same normal running temp, slightly differant output from thermostats and can be adjusted for the seasons too to keep it in the zone of better fuelling.

Happy to make more of these up if anyone wants to give this a try and get rid of the dreaded 3k glitch!!!

Will add some pics later

[Crap Tartan]

and pics of the box and where it connects into the bike

[Crap Tartan]

nearly got it right!

[shebee]

... we do have some clever buggers on here!.. thanks for the details

[vassilis67]

The cleverest buggers have 650s with no glitch at all.

[Crap Tartan]

The cleverest buggers have 650s with no glitch at all.

Quite right Vas, but for those of us with the flawed (but awesomely powerful) 1000 version this is a bit of a cheap fix!!!!

[sneezer]

craptartan
good luck with that mate just read all posts and sorry i am of no help at all

[Crap Tartan]

Just a quixk update as the same questions and issues seem to be raising their heads again!

Well I use my bike the whole year and have continued to use my black box as described earlier.

It continues to do all I expected from it and was worth the work put in.

The only proviso worth mentioning is you need to switch it off for starting as it dont like it when its already warmed!!!

If anyone wants one of these I am happy to make them up for members with a easy fitting guide and how to adjust/set up.

The cost of the components is all I would ask................

[Bear of Little Brain]

For a thread that started off on Throttle Position Sensors, it sure wandered about a bit
On TPS: when I first had my Raptor I had too many incidents of the engine cutting out on shutoff and a tendency to splutter when opening up hard from low revs. Reading comments here led me to conclude that the latter was a 3000rpm 'glitch' raised its ugly head. Fortunately, the bus driver missed me. Rightly or wrongly, I ended up focussing on the TPS, which turned out to be way off its proper setting. After adjusting it, both problems seemed to be solved. Having said that, there was one incident last summer when the cut-out happened when shutting off in order to stop at traffic lights. (Unless that was due to fuel system clogging caused by ethanol in fuel . that's a bit of a joke given my current obsession – I hope )
My point is that the TPS is one of those things that is easily ignored but, IMO, important to have right. Unless the TPS is spot-on, it is probable that all other 3000 rpm "solutions" are fundamentally undermined.
Here is a YouTube video for a TL1000:
[youtube][/youtube]
If you go to YouTube itself via

you will see several other videos on TPS in the sidebar.
My guess is, because most throttle activity is in traffic and at lower revs, then this sensor will tend to wear mainly in the lower throttle region, possibly erratically. Come warmer weather maybe I'll have another, more detailed, look at my TPS. (Like I need another thing to obsess about!)
If anyone has any useful info on the Raptor TPS, I'd be interested. Especially the availability of new units, possible car or bike world alternatives. A quick google failed to throw up any sources.

@ CrapT: Why has your mod got two switches if you are simply switching a resistor in and out of circuit? Or did I miss something? Just for devilment : how about a transistorised relay (or some kind of electronic switch) sensing the neutral lamp circuit and automatically disconnecting the resistor in neutral. (I was thinking of something similar to the work on TRE's over at Steve's TL1000S Pages:
http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/17/57/
I'm only half-serious, of course.

[Crap Tartan]

@ CrapT: Why has your mod got two switches if you are simply switching a resistor in and out of circuit? Or did I miss something? Just for devilment : how about a transistorised relay (or some kind of electronic switch) sensing the neutral lamp circuit and automatically disconnecting the resistor in neutral. (I was thinking of something similar to the work on TRE's over at Steve's TL1000S Pages:
http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/17/57/
I'm only half-serious, of course.

Well I started off checking my TPS and reset that to its proper position to allow me then to do my testing more accurately.
When the TPS is set correctly it will run smoother but the 3 k glitch can still be there as that is temperature dependant. If your TPS is way off then irrespective of the 3k glitch its gonna run rough as fekk!!

My black box is not 2 switches but one two way switch (resistance in/out of parallel circuit with ECT) and the other bit that may look like a switch is actually a potentiometer so I can vary the value of parallel resistance to fine tune the ECT setting.

Your ideas to take this up a level are perfectly feasible but I want to keep mine manuallly operated so to speak. Would be comparitively easy to do although the resistive effects of additional circuitry would effect the ECT value seen by the ECM.

Go for it Bear!!!!! If only to give you some respite from the ethanol issues...................................

[Crap Tartan]

Gonna be making a couple of these up for people who have asked.

Anyone else want one?

Cost should be around £6-7 for the parts and then just whatever it costs to post.

I will build them and send an easy fitting guide.

Its just easier and cheaper to order parts in bulk.......................

[Crap Tartan]

Thought I would put up a component list and fitting guide for anyone who wants to make their own "black box" or fit one I make for them.

Bits you will need;
Black box (enclosure) to fit the components into.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-ABS-Pla ... t_8wt_1091

On/off two position switch.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121103951823? ... 666wt_1091

1.5Kohm potentiometer (variable resisitor) 0.5W will be more than enough.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120848318833? ... 1423.l2649

twin core cable, any type will do just about, very little current flow in this circuit. Around a metre is plenty.

two thin tiewraps to hold the box, thin enought to go through holes in box mounting.

two connectors to wire the black box into the ECT circuit, I use these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111104460879? ... 1497.l2649

Tools;
drill and suitable bits to make holes in box
soldering iron and solder to wire in components
sealant to waterproof box
pliers to close connectors on wiring and cut/strip wire

Components are wired in series with each other but in parallel to the ECT. If you dont understand ask me or find someone who does and they can wire it up for you!
I am happy to make these up for anyone if required.
The two wires are connected into the existing wiring that goes to the ECM at the back under the seat. Locate the frontmost plug into the ECM. Into that are a brown/black wire and a brown/purple wire (brown is the predominant colour).
Connect either of the two wires from the box to each one of those two colours. (Dont cut either of the brown wires, just connect using the connector inline with the existing circuit. Doesnt matter which way round they go (its only a resistance)
Start bike up with the switch in the off position (potentiometer not in circuit)
Switch to on and see jump in temp readout on display.
Potentiometer should be set to around 480 ohms, this can be fine tuned once fitted and you see what your temp readout is showing.

If confused by anything get in touch or try reading the whole of this thread. All the testing info is in there and should make it much clearer.
If that is not the case get a techy geek to do it for you.........................................

[snapdragon]

Tempted, but I've been doing it the old fashioned way so long having a 'fixer' might confuse this poor old brain.

[Crap Tartan]

I have a simple circuit diagram as a word document, how do I get it to show on here?