After 17 years and two winters riding you just know they are going to be absolutely 'kin solid 
As it is the rears are going to be bad enough if only from an access perspective.
a quick dry run last night shows that I may well get there with a long socket extension and additional removal of the rear wheel & hugger. It'll be good to be able to get the 'ol magic impact wrench on 'em.
Ahh, I understand nowdefo need to drop the pipes to do the union but you dont need to take the rear stub off, maybe just loosen a little to make it easier.
! If I do have have to loosen the bolts I might as well take 'em out to clean with a good dollop of anti seize on re-assembly.Yep I hear you re rushing as I'm an old enough fart to remember too many times when I didn't and made a right pig's ear. Experience I think they call it.Give the front ones a good soak in penetrating fluid the night before and dont rush it, i have never had a problem removing mine but then again they have been off/on rather a lot!!!
When I do get round to doing the rears I'll be doing the same, S/S studs with brass nuts.Glad you got it sorted, Andy. I replaced the back header screws with S/S hex heads to give easier access than the socket-heads. It sounds contrary, but the hex-heads are both shallower and more reliable.
I did think of doing this as well but no, lets just do one thing at a time and reduce the possible pig's ear opportunities. I'll leave this for another day, perhaps when the rear wheel is out for a tyre change, and do them both at the same time.My front p-air stub is now attached with S/S 6mm socket-heads, but with a solid gasket beneath to defeat the p-air function. I've done this to cool the exhaust gasses and hopefully reduce header corrosion. You only have to look into the exhaust ports to see how much hotter the p-air side gets. Obviously, this may be environmentally-evil in terms of emissions, but it hasn't had ANY other effect on running. I'll do the rear one sometime.
Nope, standard cans for me and if the truth be known aftermarket cans are great for blatting about (exiting roundabouts, under bridges etc) but on a commute they can soon become wearing especially on a motorway (drone). Plus I haven't seen any that look right under the hangers and come with link pipes that bolt to the frame (as the standards do).Maybe you have aftermarket cans?
Yes, I believe you're correct in saying the Pair system is often removed because it causes backfire with freer flowing cans on. But in my case it's just a case of removing unnecessary & unsightly junk. Not to metion having less to (not) clean & polishI was just wondering about your original p-air comment because I suspect some owners defeat it in an attempt to civilise aftermarket exhausts that don't match the fuelling regime developed by the bike's manufacturers. Your mention of p-air disablement is the first to show after a request for comments way back.
The same thought had occured to me also. But as is my way I usually need a good 6 months to sort out a plan of action before diving in. Removal of the swingarm does have the advantage of allowing it's bearing to be replaced.A thought occurs: while stainless studs and brass nuts on the rear exhaust port sounds like a good idea, I think you might find it impossible to get the system offered-up with studs sticking out. I know I struggled with getting it all back in place after having it polished. It might be easier if the swingarm was removed but that would make exhaust work even more exhausting...
