The rusty work hoss.
The rusty work hoss.
So as said in my first post, MOT October, 31,000 Miles, Originally red.
This is just to keep a record of what i have done, if i decide to make it nice or just run it till it rots.
When i got it home..
Closer look..
Notice the loose chain adjuster? Anyway.. Cleaned the chain, tightned up all the loose bolts i could find did the Oil & filter, The brake light & Plate bulb were intermittent so cleaned up connectors & they work fine.. indicators didn't work but unplugging the relay & putting it back fixed that.. squrite some WD40 on the cable linkage because the throttle return had a slight delay & that sorted that.
Now the fresh oil is leaking out alot more rapidly
I took the big plate off, the gear selector controls are mounted to, to see how bad the rust is.
I snapped a bolt getting it off, to be fair it just turned & twisted its head off.. so that will have to be sorted some time. In the mean time i cleaned the other 2 bolts up & thread locked the the gear selector bolt because it was loose greased the bits that move.
Realisitcally i think when the MOT is out i'd be financially better off to just sell it I don't mind spending an hour here or there sorting bits. I AM still using it for work 10 mile round trip, runs fine other than the 3k blip has caught me out here or there. Suspension doesnt leak & seems bouncy sometimes.
What do you think?
This is just to keep a record of what i have done, if i decide to make it nice or just run it till it rots.
When i got it home..
Closer look..
Notice the loose chain adjuster? Anyway.. Cleaned the chain, tightned up all the loose bolts i could find did the Oil & filter, The brake light & Plate bulb were intermittent so cleaned up connectors & they work fine.. indicators didn't work but unplugging the relay & putting it back fixed that.. squrite some WD40 on the cable linkage because the throttle return had a slight delay & that sorted that.
Now the fresh oil is leaking out alot more rapidly
I took the big plate off, the gear selector controls are mounted to, to see how bad the rust is.
I snapped a bolt getting it off, to be fair it just turned & twisted its head off.. so that will have to be sorted some time. In the mean time i cleaned the other 2 bolts up & thread locked the the gear selector bolt because it was loose greased the bits that move.
Realisitcally i think when the MOT is out i'd be financially better off to just sell it I don't mind spending an hour here or there sorting bits. I AM still using it for work 10 mile round trip, runs fine other than the 3k blip has caught me out here or there. Suspension doesnt leak & seems bouncy sometimes.
What do you think?
Last edited by Craigfell on |October 8th, 2019|, 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Oh boy, was this found in the sea or just used as a winter hack on salted roads? Whatever, it breaks my heart to see the state it's in. If you decide to renovate it, you'll definitely go to heaven (or a nirvana of your choice) when your time comes!
Nick
Nick
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Pull to parts, blast and powder coat as much as possible
Saludos desde Canarias
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Let the fuel get low, about 8 miles into flashing fuel light.. filled it up and now it's misfiring. Coincidence? I need to fit some new sparks anyway.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Maybe water in fuel? (check the breather/drain in the tank filler as this being blocked is quite common) a dose of anti water additives and or injector cleaner wont do any harm.
Twisted Tequila Sister
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Good call I was just reading up on this, bikes been in my garage for 2 weeks while I've been away though.
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Took it out, checked the drain hole it was blocked, cleaned it out with petrol & a 50ml syringe. Got some fuel system cleaner.. took the bike on a 50 mile blast, could only fault it on the 3k rpm mark really need to check the TPS.
Ordered plugs & new air filter anyway, because let's face it, it needs it
Ordered plugs & new air filter anyway, because let's face it, it needs it
Re: The rusty work hoss.
Plugs came in less than 24 hours, which was nice.
I know how you love rusty photos..
Back light was knackered so ordered an aerox one, the bolts had rusted and tore the plastic to bits when I tried to remove it.
I know how you love rusty photos..
Back light was knackered so ordered an aerox one, the bolts had rusted and tore the plastic to bits when I tried to remove it.
Re: The rusty work hoss.
What's this behind the radiator hose? With the split down the middle? There's a spider living in it.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
It's a farty plastic drain tank from the air box that takes any excess horrid engine vapours, you know creamy oil etc. It's got a crummy bit of sponge in it and it's a right faff to fit on the rubber tube.What's this behind the radiator hose? With the split down the middle?
Whip it off when you take the air box out, clean him out and then take 12 hours fitting them both back with the side airbox funnels being the absolute pig.
Re: The rusty work hoss.
After 2 hours of faffing, I know what you mean.
This is regret.
Edit, 1 more hour & I've got the air box on properly fit, took me ages to get it over the front carby throttle body. No idea why.
Left the rubber bits off after the mess around.
This is regret.
Edit, 1 more hour & I've got the air box on properly fit, took me ages to get it over the front carby throttle body. No idea why.
Left the rubber bits off after the mess around.
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Are we at the point where you discover the petrol tank has swelled and is a bitch to get back in place? (Make sure all the wires and stuff and located properly under the tank or it will! never go on!)
Twisted Tequila Sister
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Re: The rusty work hoss.
Yeah, anything that requires a rubber 'press fit' is always a right pain. I bought some red rubber grease primarily for brake pistons/seals etc and that can help a great deal with stuff like this.
3 hrs? top mechanic imo.
BTW I noticed the rusty spark plug, which I'm assuming has come out of the front pot. Either way did you check the front spark plug recess drain hole on the LHS of the pot? This can clog and is easily cleaned out squirt of WD etc with a bit of wire ferreted about.
3 hrs? top mechanic imo.
BTW I noticed the rusty spark plug, which I'm assuming has come out of the front pot. Either way did you check the front spark plug recess drain hole on the LHS of the pot? This can clog and is easily cleaned out squirt of WD etc with a bit of wire ferreted about.
Re: The rusty work hoss.
3 hours, just to get the airbox seats back on the pots! I'm no mechanic just a titty with a spannerandybaggies wrote: ↑5 years ago Yeah, anything that requires a rubber 'press fit' is always a right pain. I bought some red rubber grease primarily for brake pistons/seals etc and that can help a great deal with stuff like this.
3 hrs? top mechanic imo.
BTW I noticed the rusty spark plug, which I'm assuming has come out of the front pot. Either way did you check the front spark plug recess drain hole on the LHS of the pot? This can clog and is easily cleaned out squirt of WD etc with a bit of wire ferreted about.
Did not know about the spark plug drain hole! That's a useful bit of info I'll get into that.