Hello all!!!
My 1000 raptor is running rough down low suddenly and the neutral light stays on all the time. I found the bottom part of the vehicle safety switch melted on the bottom and black soot where the connector pins join . Does anyone have or know where I can get a replacement please. I've had the bike since 2013 and it's AWESOME!!!!!!
regards YEAH! in perth australia
Vehicle safety switch
- shebee
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Re: Vehicle safety switch
Hi, i have just had a dig through the site as I knew this had come up before and came across the part number a google came up with
https://www.bike-parts-mv.com/mvagusta- ... 9/27/0/105
Its item 19 On the sheet. It looks right and its an MV part number so fingers crossed.
There is also a thread when Crap tartan was talking about how to make a replacement viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4156&p=29926&hilit ... tch#p29926
HTH
https://www.bike-parts-mv.com/mvagusta- ... 9/27/0/105
Its item 19 On the sheet. It looks right and its an MV part number so fingers crossed.
There is also a thread when Crap tartan was talking about how to make a replacement viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4156&p=29926&hilit ... tch#p29926
HTH
Twisted Tequila Sister
Re: Vehicle safety switch
Hello Shebee.
Thanks mate!!! I had a lookout the MV exploded diagrams and it shows electronic part 19 having a wire from both ends and going to 20, which is off to the rear brake light.
Thanks for the crap tartan link. It's great with the only thing lacking being the description of the diodes. Wattage and type ... I'll ask him via these pages so you've been a great help!!!!
regards YEAH!
Thanks mate!!! I had a lookout the MV exploded diagrams and it shows electronic part 19 having a wire from both ends and going to 20, which is off to the rear brake light.
Thanks for the crap tartan link. It's great with the only thing lacking being the description of the diodes. Wattage and type ... I'll ask him via these pages so you've been a great help!!!!
regards YEAH!
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Re: Vehicle safety switch
Hey Yeah!
I think the link Shebee gave you is just a bad drawing. If you look at this link, same part number for item 19 but it doesn't have the wires coming out the back https://www.bike-parts-mv.com/mvagusta- ... 8/26/0/116
I also did a bit of a dig around on the MV Agusta forums and came up with this page https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/161-new- ... oblem.html
It's the same model as the link is to above, if you look at the second post, 6th pic down it shows that part in the workshop manual. Says it uses two 1n5404 diodes, positive to the middle pin.
I think the link Shebee gave you is just a bad drawing. If you look at this link, same part number for item 19 but it doesn't have the wires coming out the back https://www.bike-parts-mv.com/mvagusta- ... 8/26/0/116
I also did a bit of a dig around on the MV Agusta forums and came up with this page https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/161-new- ... oblem.html
It's the same model as the link is to above, if you look at the second post, 6th pic down it shows that part in the workshop manual. Says it uses two 1n5404 diodes, positive to the middle pin.
- Trevor68
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Re: Vehicle safety switch
Subbed!, mine too is burnt quite badly, I have had to cable tie it in one particular position to stop the neutral light coming on all the time.
I know of a 650 for sale down the south coast simply because the guy gave up trying to source this.
I know of a 650 for sale down the south coast simply because the guy gave up trying to source this.
“Motorcycling is not, of itself, dangerous. It is however, extremely unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence, or stupidity.”
- Trevor68
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Re: Vehicle safety switch
Ok these should be pretty simple to make so I have ordered these.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322897392207
I will pick up a bag of 10 diodes from jaycar and make them all up, when I'm done there will be 4 spares for whoever needs one.
Update: Ordered 12 diodes, total cost in parts is now a princely $21.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322897392207
I will pick up a bag of 10 diodes from jaycar and make them all up, when I'm done there will be 4 spares for whoever needs one.
Update: Ordered 12 diodes, total cost in parts is now a princely $21.
“Motorcycling is not, of itself, dangerous. It is however, extremely unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence, or stupidity.”
Re: Vehicle safety switch
Hello All!!!!
My 1000 raptor had the side stand switch disconnected prior to my purchase in 2013 and starts with only the clutch lever pulled, independent of up or down side stand, so it was probably done correctly - ie that the cable goes to ground straight from the Injection relay. Although I am going to dig into the chain lubed mess and confirm this.
So looking at Page G13 of the manual, if I remove the connection between the Vehicle Safety Switch and the - ( ignition coil relay and side stand switch wire), then connect the cable that goes from the neutral light to the VSSwitch and re connect it to the cable going to the gear position switch from the VSS - so bypass the VSS, then all will work well. This can all happen at the VSS itself by using the 3 cables that go into the VSS. On my bike they are they are the white/black, yellow/ green and yellow/ blue and go into the top of the VSS. I have removed the VSS plug containing the dead diodes and the bike runs fine - with the stumbling now gone. Also gone is my neutral light.
My gear position switch has been erratic for a while and has now died - in terms of the test in the manual on page G19 - and I have a replacement - from a 650 suzuki - awaiting insertion.
I'll let you'all know if I get my neutral light back after the operation.
Yours in digging deep...YEAH!
My 1000 raptor had the side stand switch disconnected prior to my purchase in 2013 and starts with only the clutch lever pulled, independent of up or down side stand, so it was probably done correctly - ie that the cable goes to ground straight from the Injection relay. Although I am going to dig into the chain lubed mess and confirm this.
So looking at Page G13 of the manual, if I remove the connection between the Vehicle Safety Switch and the - ( ignition coil relay and side stand switch wire), then connect the cable that goes from the neutral light to the VSSwitch and re connect it to the cable going to the gear position switch from the VSS - so bypass the VSS, then all will work well. This can all happen at the VSS itself by using the 3 cables that go into the VSS. On my bike they are they are the white/black, yellow/ green and yellow/ blue and go into the top of the VSS. I have removed the VSS plug containing the dead diodes and the bike runs fine - with the stumbling now gone. Also gone is my neutral light.
My gear position switch has been erratic for a while and has now died - in terms of the test in the manual on page G19 - and I have a replacement - from a 650 suzuki - awaiting insertion.
I'll let you'all know if I get my neutral light back after the operation.
Yours in digging deep...YEAH!
- Trevor68
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Re: Vehicle safety switch
No worries, I have all the bits now to make new VSS but off on holidays tomorrow so it will be awhile before I can assemble them.
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“Motorcycling is not, of itself, dangerous. It is however, extremely unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence, or stupidity.”
Re: Vehicle safety switch
Hello and welcome to March!!!
Whilst pulling apart the 3 cables going into the Vehicle Safety Switch, I discovered melted insulation and bare wires. My original problem started after the VSS fell onto or very close to the rear header pipe and started an overheating and melting scenario, eventually causing the diodes to melt the plastic around them. I've also had almost cutting out or almost stalling when coming off idle-like it needs a TRE, but I've already fitted one.
So I connected the Black/white VSS cable to the neutral light, to the Yellow/Green VSS cable going to the Gear Position switch and now I've got my neutral light back. I then connected the yellow/blue from the Injection Relay straight to the earth terminal. Now no stumble/stall so it probably wasn't earthing property or briefly shorting to the other two cables. And, a
All is now good and I don't have to replace that damned stupid, unnecessary VSS....
Thanks to all previous comments around this issue that allowed me to start looking at it slowly.
Happy digging everyone!! yeah!
Whilst pulling apart the 3 cables going into the Vehicle Safety Switch, I discovered melted insulation and bare wires. My original problem started after the VSS fell onto or very close to the rear header pipe and started an overheating and melting scenario, eventually causing the diodes to melt the plastic around them. I've also had almost cutting out or almost stalling when coming off idle-like it needs a TRE, but I've already fitted one.
So I connected the Black/white VSS cable to the neutral light, to the Yellow/Green VSS cable going to the Gear Position switch and now I've got my neutral light back. I then connected the yellow/blue from the Injection Relay straight to the earth terminal. Now no stumble/stall so it probably wasn't earthing property or briefly shorting to the other two cables. And, a
All is now good and I don't have to replace that damned stupid, unnecessary VSS....
Thanks to all previous comments around this issue that allowed me to start looking at it slowly.
Happy digging everyone!! yeah!