Raptor Chapter

nickst4 wrote: ↑8 years ago Thanks for the replies so far. Personally, I don't see the problem as being associated with a particular rev-level; rather more the matter of feeding-in miniscule amounts of that lovely torque while riding slowly around gravelly tight corners and suchlike. //snip//
Nick

Umm, so feathering the clutch, as I've been doing for the past umpty years and exty miles isn't yr answer?

snapdragon wrote: ↑5 years ago

Umm, so feathering the clutch, as I've been doing for the past umpty years and exty miles isn't yr answer?
[/quote]

Very valid technique, I'm sure, but it would take finesse that I may not have!

My current method of managing the Raptor 1K's throttle response at small throttle openings is to have at least two fingers resting on the front brake lever and that makes it easier to gauge the throttle twist relative to the 'bars and control it much easier than a free-hand twist of the wrist. Only the 1K needs this because others of my rides have slower throttle cams and the newest one, a Ducati Hyperstrada, is ride-by-electronic-wire that has a slow start programmed in, followed by ballistic power with very little more movement. They call it Touring Mode!

Nick

Righto, I've been riding mainly the raptor for a long while, I know changing up with the scooter was a "laugh" when I hit the wrong lever
Slow start sounds scary, I need zilch to thirty pdq from home most days

Just idly looking through old posts, and it seems Renegade Hippy* never got an answer to a query about the ProGrip 714 bar grips that work so well. They do come with blind ends which need to be opened to fit bar-end weights, and have double flanges on the inner end that may need trimming if the grips are longer than needed.

Dunno if RH* is still with us here but, if so, !

Nick

nickst4 wrote: ↑3 years ago Just idly looking through old posts, and it seems Renegade Hippy* never got an answer to a query about the ProGrip 714 bar grips that work so well. They do come with blind ends which need to be opened to fit bar-end weights, and have double flanges on the inner end that may need trimming if the grips are longer than needed.

Dunno if RH* is still with us here but, if so, !

Nick

Still here and good to know that my rubber hacking was appropriate in this case!

Renegade Hippy wrote: ↑3 years ago
Still here and good to know that my rubber hacking was appropriate in this case!

Sorry it took so long!

Cheers,

Nick

Just an update on the mod I did years ago which gave some relief. I had another look under the tank to see if there was a way to change the throttle-body end of the connection to soften the initial pickup of the motor and I really don't think that's an option.

However, I got my Dremel out again and scooped quite a bit more from the nylon twistgrip drum to reduce its diameter and therefore the amount of cable moved per degree of rotation, and it has definitely made a worthwhile difference to the controllability of the motor.

I love the smooth and lusty power of the Suzuki 1000 motor, but the problem comes when I swap from one bike to another. Being lucky enough to have quite a few bikes in the garage, including singles with very little power at the bottom end which require a lot of wrist action to make progress, the Raptor can be quite challenging!

Nick

nickst4 wrote: ↑1 year ago I got my Dremel out again and scooped quite a bit more from the nylon twistgrip drum to reduce its diameter

As I speak I am wondering where my dremel is. I will definitely be doing this!

Thanks Nick!

I forgot to mention another aspect of my recent throttle-action mods, and that was to liberally smear the 'bar and inside the tube with silicone grease. This just adds a little damping to the twistgrip and makes it less sensitive to twitches of the wrist often due to bumps in the road, while still giving a very smooth and easy pull on the cables.

All good fun!

Nick