Engine removal lessons

[pod]

I had to emove my 650 motor this year for a welding job on the frame.
Anyone contemplating this can learn from my hassles.

Strip down
fuel tank remove totally, plug the fuel line with a rod.
Drain oil and coolant.
Air box and carbs remove .
Coils remove
IMPORTANT note the Low voltage wires and mark front and rear, I mixed these on the rebuild with interesting backfire mayhem.

Exhaust remove apart from rear stub, my front pipe nuts were seized solid , replaced them with brass 8mm bolts.

Remove sprocket cover and chain.
Get paraffin and an old brush to remove the chain mung.
Remove footrest mount plates.

Steam clean motor.

part all loom connections and treat all male pins to contact lube.
You cant really cock the reconnecting up as long as you mark the coil connections.

I didnt have a trolley jack so I made a stand that fitted the vacant large crancase mount at the motor low point, two slabs of 10 x 2inch plank with a hole drilled to take a rod passed through the lower mount.

Fit the jack or stand then undo engine mounts, do not lift engine just withdraw front wards, watch you dont catch the rear pipe.

Voila. A gutted Raptor.

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse,
While the motor was out I did the PAIR v/v removal, impossible any other time.
Cheers
Pod

[shebee]

Thanks POD for all your efforts in posting these destructions!

[DrBagiva]

Thanks for the info. Just one thing-the pair v/v removal? What's that?
As a matter of interest what was the welding job for

[pod]

I did a separate thread for the PAIR valve,

The PAIR valve is a small vacuum operated reed v/v which connects a black hose from the air box RHS and has 2 other outlet hoses to the exhaust joing each cyliner just below the header pipe exits,,

Started off as a valve shim job and front end strip.
( A postman had reversed into me and broken a mudguard mounting)
Also found a broken exhaust mount RHS at the low point on the frame.
Also the stainless tab to the failed mount had a crack in it.
THe bike has been dropped and the LHS can was loose , probably cumulative .
So that was 4 weld jobs , 1 Alloy one SS , one for the frame and a sheared PAIR stud below the front pipe .

Welders like stuff to be easy access and clean so a fairly complete strip down was in order, didnt touch the swingarm though .
Luckily there is a good guy ( David Ferguson, AKA Fergie) in Oban who did a great job for £40.

I was T boned a couple of years ago in town low speed , the postie hit me and Ive high sided it at Knockhill, low speed hairpin. SO its fair do'es
4 years 30,000 miles not too bad.

I ended up with a grand to spend on repairs from the insurance, so
instead of new forks and cans and mudguard etc.
It got the old mudguard some welding and a new set of inlet cams// old inlets retimed for the exhaust, bar ends, mirror , radial master cylinder.
New chain and sprockets, brakes serviced , speedo repaired.
DYno run shows 77BHP at the back wheel and the brakes feel magic, mixture all OK as well.

The cams were good value for HP, $300 from the states and £50 costs.
8HP for £200, bikes sounds better and is more perky past 6 , 000 rpm.

Nice bike to work on, apart from the coil connections.

The bike is now a super Raptor
Chassis mods, Wee screen , Baines link, Hagon shock,Renthal bars, more seat padding, Maxton forks with Adjustable rebound damping;
Engine , recammed 77 hp , Iridium plugs, PAIR v/v removed and advanced ignition timing
Brakes , Brembo Radial front cylinder.
Engine consumes no oil and does 170 miles/ 15 litres when the light comes on.


Cheers
Pod

[snapdragon]

Wow a super Raptor indeed

[pod]

Cheers Snapdragon
If I win the pools a stroker crank and lightweight wheels are on the shopping list

Its not all great, the paint has mostly vanished off the LHS foot rest bracket, and the 650 needs to use all its 6 gears so I get fed up with the clutch. had to repaint the fork bottoms and swing arm end caps, paint is lifting on the rear hub too.
The std fastener plating gave up years ago apart from the hidden bits.

However it goes and handles and stops so Im well pleased.
Cheers
Pod

[AZ]

I`m assuming the 650 uses the SV650 motor from suzuki and i believe you can get a 7- something cc big bore kit.That`d be my next move

[pod]

AZ , yup SV 650 motor, yeh big bore kits are available.
But it runs so sweet Im not disturbing anything till it needs it.
Cheers
Pod

[stevepratt48]

Must admit, I take the frame off, rather than the engine out (If you get my drift!) on the 'thou, it's a bit of a move & slide & drop & wiggle, the frame's much lighter than the mill!

[pod]

Hi Steve , your right with a bare frame thats easier, the blocks did help a good bit when it came to refitting though, meant the paddock stands fitted with no hassle, I thought the 650 was a tight fit , particularly around the coil/ brackets, the thou wont be any easier for sure.
Cheers
Pod