Clutch conversion revisited!
Clutch conversion revisited!
G'day everyone in Raptor land,
I'm having another crack at getting this clutch conversion uploaded with pics finaly sorted. I did forward the pics to shebee's hotmail account, but maybe I got the ady wrong, I'm not sure. Anyhow here we go........
All parts I purchased were new with the exception of the master cylinders, as they were the only items that were more expensive than new ones. I even pulled my bike apart to take the pics!
The parts list is as follows:
DL1000 V-Strom clutch master cylinder (I purchased the brake master cylinder as well so they match). I chose these coffin type master cylinders as I wanted my Rap to have a low profile across the bars.
DL1000 V-Strom clutch slave cylinder (comes complete incl. rubber seal & bleeder etc) - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2316006G02
Slave cylinder bolting - 1 off M6 x 70 & 1 off M6 x 65.
DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter to 114mm, any longer and the clutch will slip.
DL1000 V-Strom Spacer - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2317106G00. It's for mounting slave cylinder. The M6 x 70mm bolt goes through it.
DL1000 V-Strom Sprocket Cover - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 1136006G00. This item differs from the Rap cover in its shape at the swing arm end, other than that it bolts straight on. I made a template from the Raps cover (which I didn't want to ruin) & cut the Suzuki cover to match. I then plastic welded a new strip up the end where I modified it. It's best to use the DL1000 V-Strom or SV1000 sprocket covers rather than modifying the Rap cover anyway. The reason being is that the Suzuki sprocket cover has a piece moulded on it for the slave cylinder's seal to be held in place.
The Suzuki Sprocket Cover uses a slightly different bolting arrangement, but all the holes (which have M6 threads) are there in the crankcase. Sprocket Cover bolting - 1 off M6 x 70 & 3 off M6 x 35
The Raptors sensor on the sprocket cover fits straight onto the Suzuki item using the original Raptors screws.
Hydraulic clutch line - 1050mm long with a 90º banjo at the master cylinder end & a straight banjo at the slave cylinder end.
Banjo bolts & washers
On the electrical side of things, you will have to modify the Raptors wiring connection to suit the Suzuki connections on the clutch master cylinder, or just by pass it.
One thing you might want to consider when going to all the trouble of doing this conversion is machining a brass or nylon sleeve that covers the pushrod. According to the DL forum, the clutch mechanism is prone to seizing as the pushrod is exposed to all the chain lube as it runs close to the sprocket. However, regular maintenance will also stop this problem.
I have done more than 20,000k's with the above set up and have never had a problem.
Hope this helps those who are interested
cheers from Boofhead
P.S. I've just purchased GSXR 750 K5 forks......the next evolution begins!
I'm having another crack at getting this clutch conversion uploaded with pics finaly sorted. I did forward the pics to shebee's hotmail account, but maybe I got the ady wrong, I'm not sure. Anyhow here we go........
All parts I purchased were new with the exception of the master cylinders, as they were the only items that were more expensive than new ones. I even pulled my bike apart to take the pics!
The parts list is as follows:
DL1000 V-Strom clutch master cylinder (I purchased the brake master cylinder as well so they match). I chose these coffin type master cylinders as I wanted my Rap to have a low profile across the bars.
DL1000 V-Strom clutch slave cylinder (comes complete incl. rubber seal & bleeder etc) - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2316006G02
Slave cylinder bolting - 1 off M6 x 70 & 1 off M6 x 65.
DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter to 114mm, any longer and the clutch will slip.
DL1000 V-Strom Spacer - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2317106G00. It's for mounting slave cylinder. The M6 x 70mm bolt goes through it.
DL1000 V-Strom Sprocket Cover - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 1136006G00. This item differs from the Rap cover in its shape at the swing arm end, other than that it bolts straight on. I made a template from the Raps cover (which I didn't want to ruin) & cut the Suzuki cover to match. I then plastic welded a new strip up the end where I modified it. It's best to use the DL1000 V-Strom or SV1000 sprocket covers rather than modifying the Rap cover anyway. The reason being is that the Suzuki sprocket cover has a piece moulded on it for the slave cylinder's seal to be held in place.
The Suzuki Sprocket Cover uses a slightly different bolting arrangement, but all the holes (which have M6 threads) are there in the crankcase. Sprocket Cover bolting - 1 off M6 x 70 & 3 off M6 x 35
The Raptors sensor on the sprocket cover fits straight onto the Suzuki item using the original Raptors screws.
Hydraulic clutch line - 1050mm long with a 90º banjo at the master cylinder end & a straight banjo at the slave cylinder end.
Banjo bolts & washers
On the electrical side of things, you will have to modify the Raptors wiring connection to suit the Suzuki connections on the clutch master cylinder, or just by pass it.
One thing you might want to consider when going to all the trouble of doing this conversion is machining a brass or nylon sleeve that covers the pushrod. According to the DL forum, the clutch mechanism is prone to seizing as the pushrod is exposed to all the chain lube as it runs close to the sprocket. However, regular maintenance will also stop this problem.
I have done more than 20,000k's with the above set up and have never had a problem.
Hope this helps those who are interested
cheers from Boofhead
P.S. I've just purchased GSXR 750 K5 forks......the next evolution begins!
- Attachments
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- Pushrod (114mm max) 2.JPG (136.12 KiB) Viewed 23988 times
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- Master Cyl's on H'bars 2.JPG (221.42 KiB) Viewed 23988 times
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- Master Cyl (rear view) 2.JPG (204.88 KiB) Viewed 23988 times
Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
more pics that didn't attach to the above post
- Attachments
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- Sprocket Cover-Slave Cyl parts 2.JPG (212.43 KiB) Viewed 23985 times
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- Slave Cyl (minus seal) 2.JPG (199.19 KiB) Viewed 23985 times
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- Sprocket Cover-Slave Cyl (fitted) 2.JPG (208.61 KiB) Viewed 23985 times
Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
Well done, some good info there, maybe we should have a pure tech how to section that our mods could move things like this into (read only to everyone else).
- shebee
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Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
New sub forum created and topic moved, i will leave it a few days before i lock it in case there are any other additions that Boof wants to make .
Any thing else you think ought be be in this section let me know
Any thing else you think ought be be in this section let me know
Twisted Tequila Sister
Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
Great write-up, and that's a lovely clean looking job.
Can't wait for the forks!
Can't wait for the forks!
Road racing's where it's at - going round in circles all day is for hamsters.
Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
G'day everyone once again,
I'm quite surprised that my post was worth creating a new thread, so I guess it must be of some use then
I had been meaning to put the info together for ages & finally put this clutch saga to bed because it was a real chore trying to find & add together all the bits of info that was available & then filter out what would work & what wouldn't. It's a pity my photography & PC skills are crap though! But it was my mate, who's a Suzuki mechanic, that pointed out the obvious..."an SV & DL are the same as a TL with a hydraulic clutch, just use their bits dickhead", I think he meant to say Boofhead! He was right though, they even have the cable clutch mounting point still moulded in the cases.
In all honesty, with a few basic tools, the conversion is easy as. Other than a bit of stuffing around with the sprocket cover & wiring, everything bolts straight on.
The SV's sprocket cover (SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 1136116G00) has a different part number to the DL's, so it might not need any mods to fit. If you try it & it doesn't need any mods, let me know so I can buy a 'real' carbon fibre one & shelve the fake one!
All the other new DL bits I purchased have the same product numbers as the SV.
My bars are ABM Streetbars - 7/8" O.D, 12mm I.D, 820mm wide standard (I cut 35mm off each side of mine) with a 75mm rise and a 64mm sweepback. This means they are little lower & narrower than standard, but that shouldn't effect the hydraulic clutch lines length at 1050mm long because there is a fair amount of slack in the line. It may pay to check yours though, especially if you have risers.
This is the site I used to research Suzuki part numbers - http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-sv1000-s-us ... partslist/ - It's now coming in handy for checking part numbers for my fork conversion.
Ok, I've bored you all enough with my dribble for now, catch you all later.
cheers from Boofhead
I'm quite surprised that my post was worth creating a new thread, so I guess it must be of some use then
I had been meaning to put the info together for ages & finally put this clutch saga to bed because it was a real chore trying to find & add together all the bits of info that was available & then filter out what would work & what wouldn't. It's a pity my photography & PC skills are crap though! But it was my mate, who's a Suzuki mechanic, that pointed out the obvious..."an SV & DL are the same as a TL with a hydraulic clutch, just use their bits dickhead", I think he meant to say Boofhead! He was right though, they even have the cable clutch mounting point still moulded in the cases.
In all honesty, with a few basic tools, the conversion is easy as. Other than a bit of stuffing around with the sprocket cover & wiring, everything bolts straight on.
The SV's sprocket cover (SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 1136116G00) has a different part number to the DL's, so it might not need any mods to fit. If you try it & it doesn't need any mods, let me know so I can buy a 'real' carbon fibre one & shelve the fake one!
All the other new DL bits I purchased have the same product numbers as the SV.
My bars are ABM Streetbars - 7/8" O.D, 12mm I.D, 820mm wide standard (I cut 35mm off each side of mine) with a 75mm rise and a 64mm sweepback. This means they are little lower & narrower than standard, but that shouldn't effect the hydraulic clutch lines length at 1050mm long because there is a fair amount of slack in the line. It may pay to check yours though, especially if you have risers.
This is the site I used to research Suzuki part numbers - http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-sv1000-s-us ... partslist/ - It's now coming in handy for checking part numbers for my fork conversion.
Ok, I've bored you all enough with my dribble for now, catch you all later.
cheers from Boofhead
- redgpzrider
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Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
I am considering this mod over the winter.
Since Mr Suzuki made a lot of bikes out of the parts bin, it's likely that the clutch slave cylinder is common to a number of models which should make part searching a bit easier. When I get around to it I'll search out the part numbers.
Also there are a few aftermarket clutch and brake master cylinder sets (7/8"?) that are cheap enough on EvilBay.
Any thoughts.
Regards Red
Since Mr Suzuki made a lot of bikes out of the parts bin, it's likely that the clutch slave cylinder is common to a number of models which should make part searching a bit easier. When I get around to it I'll search out the part numbers.
Also there are a few aftermarket clutch and brake master cylinder sets (7/8"?) that are cheap enough on EvilBay.
Any thoughts.
Regards Red
It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.
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Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
Great to see people tinkering....keep it up
Keep it Real!
01 vrap, ducati yokes/forks/front wheel, clip-ons, aprillia disc's, link plates, hagon shock,TFI box, air box mod'd, tre, prp exhausts, modified monoposto 916 seat unit, new undertray and expansion tank.
01 vrap, ducati yokes/forks/front wheel, clip-ons, aprillia disc's, link plates, hagon shock,TFI box, air box mod'd, tre, prp exhausts, modified monoposto 916 seat unit, new undertray and expansion tank.
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Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
Nice job Boof. I am looking into doing mine as new clutch cables are expensive.
You say you had to "cut" the pushrod (DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter to 114mm, any longer and the clutch will slip.) yet your friend says tl parts fit ?
What is the difference in the pushrod lengths ?
Making parts isn`t a problem as I am an engineer anyway so shortening a pushrod won`t be too difficult
I am currently watching SV/DL master and slave cylinders and SV sprocket cover. Never gave the rod a thought
You say you had to "cut" the pushrod (DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter to 114mm, any longer and the clutch will slip.) yet your friend says tl parts fit ?
What is the difference in the pushrod lengths ?
Making parts isn`t a problem as I am an engineer anyway so shortening a pushrod won`t be too difficult
I am currently watching SV/DL master and slave cylinders and SV sprocket cover. Never gave the rod a thought
Be Loud Be Proud Be Heard
2002 V RAP 1000,Raucous,Rebellious and Hooliganistic
1997 BLACKBIRD,Quiet,Refined and Comfortable
2002 V RAP 1000,Raucous,Rebellious and Hooliganistic
1997 BLACKBIRD,Quiet,Refined and Comfortable
Re: Clutch conversion revisited!
RaptorMan wrote:Nice job Boof. I am looking into doing mine as new clutch cables are expensive.
You say you had to "cut" the pushrod (DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter to 114mm, any longer and the clutch will slip.) yet your friend says tl parts fit ?
What is the difference in the pushrod lengths ?
Making parts isn`t a problem as I am an engineer anyway so shortening a pushrod won`t be too difficult
I am currently watching SV/DL master and slave cylinders and SV sprocket cover. Never gave the rod a thought
G'day Raptorman thanks for the compliment .RaptorMan wrote:Nice job Boof. I am looking into doing mine as new clutch cables are expensive.
You say you had to "cut" the pushrod (DL1000 V-Strom left hand push-rod - SUZUKI PRODUCT NUMBER: 2311126D00. I had to cut this item shorter to 114mm, any longer and the clutch will slip.) yet your friend says tl parts fit ?
What is the difference in the pushrod lengths ?
Making parts isn`t a problem as I am an engineer anyway so shortening a pushrod won`t be too difficult
I am currently watching SV/DL master and slave cylinders and SV sprocket cover. Never gave the rod a thought
Yeh it's odd that the pushrod has to be cut, but it does, & to tell you the truth I didn't even look at the TLR (TL are cable) & maybe my poor writing skills didn't make it clear about what my mate said!! Basically the DL/SV are the same engines as a TL, but the DL/SV have a hydraulic clutch & the TL doesn't, the Raptor is a TL.
When I done the mod, the slave cylinder would not bolt up properly as it was already fully engaging the clutch because the pushrod was too long. I'm a boilermaker so I just armed myself with a vernier caliper, a hacksaw & a file, done some sums, cut it, cleaned it up & bolted it in. The clutch has never given any trouble. I deliberately took the pushrod out & took a pic & posted it as proof on my write up. As far as pushrod length goes, there isn't much difference between free play, working & not working though.
Buy a new slave cylinder as they are very cheap and come complete with dust seal etc. As far as the SV sprocket cover goes, let me know if it bolts straight on. The DL cover had to be modified at the sprocket end. The DL & SV sprocket covers have a different Product Number, so maybe the SV cover will bolt straight on.
Good luck with it all, cheers from Boofhead.