Corners
Basics
Which Raptor do you have?
If it's a 1000 then these details are correct, if it's a 650 someone else will let you know.
Have you checked all the basics?
Correct Tyre sizes (Front 120/70-zr 17" or 120/65-zr 17" Rear 180/55-zr 17")
Correct Tyre pressures (Fr 33 to 36psi Rear 35.5 to 38.5psi)
How worn are the tyres (especially the rear)
What tyres are you running?
What are you comparing the Raptor to?
Miz.
If it's a 1000 then these details are correct, if it's a 650 someone else will let you know.
Have you checked all the basics?
Correct Tyre sizes (Front 120/70-zr 17" or 120/65-zr 17" Rear 180/55-zr 17")
Correct Tyre pressures (Fr 33 to 36psi Rear 35.5 to 38.5psi)
How worn are the tyres (especially the rear)
What tyres are you running?
What are you comparing the Raptor to?
Miz.
152/999
Corners
Thanks Miz, 1000cc, Tyres are correct size and pressure, with some life left (Bridgestone BT014).
I'm comparing it to a Monster. The Monster falls nicely into corners, but this thing is work. And I just got left for dead by a mk1 Guzzi lemon on the best twisties around here.
My next thing will be to make up some of Cavia's Ally triangles, did you fit some? and any change?
I'm also a bit wary of using the rear brake as it fades to nothing in no time.
Thanks for the input.
I'm comparing it to a Monster. The Monster falls nicely into corners, but this thing is work. And I just got left for dead by a mk1 Guzzi lemon on the best twisties around here.
My next thing will be to make up some of Cavia's Ally triangles, did you fit some? and any change?
I'm also a bit wary of using the rear brake as it fades to nothing in no time.
Thanks for the input.
Hi and welcome 
Maybe a bit to much preload on the rear?
Can make your bike a bit nervous
How much does your bike sag under its own weight ?(front and rear)
Also check your head bearings,mine were way loose some time ago
Oh yeah, the missus got a duc monster and I sometimes steal it from her
and It's not better handling than my rap hehe!
hope this helps
Maybe a bit to much preload on the rear?
Can make your bike a bit nervous
How much does your bike sag under its own weight ?(front and rear)
Also check your head bearings,mine were way loose some time ago
Oh yeah, the missus got a duc monster and I sometimes steal it from her
and It's not better handling than my rap hehe!
hope this helps
No bike is ever finished!
Corners
Forks are stiff, so I've been trying to balance it with lots of preload at rear. (Sag whats that? !!!) I better see if there are spacers in the forks that don't need to be there. And double check the steering head bearings.
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snapdragon
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welcome in Chil 
No problems here - unless theres too much grit on the road
I'd recommend getting the forks fettled in case your forks have been tweaked by a previous owner, Raptors were known for soft-ish forks.
and maybe put the forks/yokes and pre-load back to their original (too much 'through' will cause twitch)
check steering head bearings as Cavia has mentioned, also swing arm and rear wheel bearings
and all the stuff Miz said - specially rear tyre wear - after winter riding/touring the softer race type tyre could easily be a little 'square'
they lean fine in standard trim
doesnt always feel as low as you might expect due to the layout
No problems here - unless theres too much grit on the road
I'd recommend getting the forks fettled in case your forks have been tweaked by a previous owner, Raptors were known for soft-ish forks.
and maybe put the forks/yokes and pre-load back to their original (too much 'through' will cause twitch)
check steering head bearings as Cavia has mentioned, also swing arm and rear wheel bearings
and all the stuff Miz said - specially rear tyre wear - after winter riding/touring the softer race type tyre could easily be a little 'square'
they lean fine in standard trim
doesnt always feel as low as you might expect due to the layoutSnappY
~~X~X~{:>
~~X~X~{:>
Re: Corners
HiChil wrote:Forks are stiff, so I've been trying to balance it with lots of preload at rear. (Sag whats that? !!!) I better see if there are spacers in the forks that don't need to be there. And double check the steering head bearings.
(static)sag is how much your bike compresses its suspension ,both front and rear when it is standing on the ground without rider, this is the first step you have to get right when you start tuning the suspension
you will be looking for about 10mm rear and 25mm front
check page 5 on this:
http://www.ohlins.com/Portals/0/documen ... 41-02A.pdf
You can use the nut under the fork top cap to play with the front preload
And raising tehe rear also helps handling a lot
Cheers
No bike is ever finished!
Hi Chil,
Yep what others have said, not sure which year your Rap is but apparently early ones had forks on the too soft side and latter ones (mine) on the too hard side.
Dropping the front and raising the rear really helps tipping in also check alignment of your rear wheel in relationship with the front wheel.
Regards, zorro
Yep what others have said, not sure which year your Rap is but apparently early ones had forks on the too soft side and latter ones (mine) on the too hard side.
Dropping the front and raising the rear really helps tipping in also check alignment of your rear wheel in relationship with the front wheel.
Regards, zorro
Standard Raptor suspension is wrong at both ends. My '03 had too much front compression damping and the springs were too soft, the rear shock is waaaayyyy underdamped but the spring isn't too far out. (Who the ^&%* designed it that way? 
)
Mine now has GSXR1000 fork internals (giving internally adjustable rebound damping), jack-up linkage plates on the rear (Bikefarm?) and a slightly modified late Tuono rear shock. It now springs, damps and tips in like a bike should!
)Mine now has GSXR1000 fork internals (giving internally adjustable rebound damping), jack-up linkage plates on the rear (Bikefarm?) and a slightly modified late Tuono rear shock. It now springs, damps and tips in like a bike should!
Hi Chil,
a few comments as I had similar issues on my Rap1000 MY2001 when I bought it:
1). I fitted a new pair of progressive springs by WhitePower to the front. Whilst fitting them I mentioned that the pre-load adustments (which are INSIDE the fork - i.e. you have to open the fork to adjust pre-load) were totally wrong (too less and different loads on both sides). I am running with the Cagiva default air cushion in the fork but using WhitePower fork oil despite the WhitePower recommendation which is a lot less.
2). I adjusted the pre-load front and rear to 30% of the complete suspension travel when sitting on the bike (the original rear spring might not allow this as it is a little too hard for light drivers but I tried to get as close as possible - anyway it depends on your weight). This improved the handling of the front really.
3). I lifted the rear by 30mm using a Bikefarm triangle together with the original shock. This improved handling a lot and I was more or less satisfied.
However I could lately buy a full adjusable Extremetech rear shock and fitted it. I also changed tyres from Bridgestone BT020 to Michelin Pilot Power 2ct (yeah!!!). I think the tyres will provide another big step of improvement but I haven't checked yet as the bike needs plates/legislation (stupid German law).
Anyway my recommendation would be to fit new fork springs, lift the rear by 30mm and use good tyres. The only thing you need to be careful about is "kick-back" as the reason for the weak front was to avoid "kick-back" of the steering whilst accelerating on uneven roads. If that's a problem you might need a steering damper (I wonder if this is the right english word - my apologizes for the bad english). Oh and it could be your chain goes onto the silencer after having lifted the rear - you better check this in advance.
Best Regards,
Mr_Moto
a few comments as I had similar issues on my Rap1000 MY2001 when I bought it:
1). I fitted a new pair of progressive springs by WhitePower to the front. Whilst fitting them I mentioned that the pre-load adustments (which are INSIDE the fork - i.e. you have to open the fork to adjust pre-load) were totally wrong (too less and different loads on both sides). I am running with the Cagiva default air cushion in the fork but using WhitePower fork oil despite the WhitePower recommendation which is a lot less.
2). I adjusted the pre-load front and rear to 30% of the complete suspension travel when sitting on the bike (the original rear spring might not allow this as it is a little too hard for light drivers but I tried to get as close as possible - anyway it depends on your weight). This improved the handling of the front really.
3). I lifted the rear by 30mm using a Bikefarm triangle together with the original shock. This improved handling a lot and I was more or less satisfied.
However I could lately buy a full adjusable Extremetech rear shock and fitted it. I also changed tyres from Bridgestone BT020 to Michelin Pilot Power 2ct (yeah!!!). I think the tyres will provide another big step of improvement but I haven't checked yet as the bike needs plates/legislation (stupid German law).
Anyway my recommendation would be to fit new fork springs, lift the rear by 30mm and use good tyres. The only thing you need to be careful about is "kick-back" as the reason for the weak front was to avoid "kick-back" of the steering whilst accelerating on uneven roads. If that's a problem you might need a steering damper (I wonder if this is the right english word - my apologizes for the bad english). Oh and it could be your chain goes onto the silencer after having lifted the rear - you better check this in advance.
Best Regards,
Mr_Moto
Life's a bitch - and then you die...
Ok, so I removed the forks, adjusted the preload ( I had been told there was no adjustment in the front , so it was good to have your info), changed the fork oil. Also bled the rear brake and took out some rear preload. A marked improvement, much more confidence in the corners already.
Next the rear end and a set of shocky brackets to Cavia's drawing. The bearings needed grease badly. looks better feels better, very happy.
Trying to stick a photo of the brackets in here but not so easy.
Also put the silencer outside the hanger bracket and some spacers at lower bracket, the can sticks out more on this side but there is some clearance for the chain now
Next the rear end and a set of shocky brackets to Cavia's drawing. The bearings needed grease badly. looks better feels better, very happy.
Trying to stick a photo of the brackets in here but not so easy.
Also put the silencer outside the hanger bracket and some spacers at lower bracket, the can sticks out more on this side but there is some clearance for the chain now