Hi all
Does anyone have a PC 3 for sale?
Rap thou wont fuel correctly, TPS set, Yoshi box wont do? running out of ideas
thanks Kev
PC 3 required?
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Re: PC 3 required?
On the Fowie Fest thread it says Martin (Crap Tartan) is in hospital after a triple heart bypass. Fingers crossed for a speedy recovery Martin! Info on his black boxes in in this thread but it's a long one:
http://www.raptorchapter.org.uk/viewtop ... =11&t=3790
http://www.raptorchapter.org.uk/viewtop ... =11&t=3790
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Re: PC 3 required?
I've just read the TPS Reset thread through and the basics of it seem pretty simple. I've also got a dose of the 3000rpms and am going to give it a go over the next week or so.
What you need to do is locate the ECU at the rear of the bike under the seat. It has two connectors, on the connector nearest the front of the bike locate the brown/black wire and the brown/purple wire (brown is the predominant colour). The idea is to short these two wires with a resistor in parallel with the wiring so that the ECU thinks the bike is running hotter than it actually is. This switches it to the lean map much earlier and makes it happy throughout the rev range.
Martin used a variable resistor so the value of the resistance could be tweaked but it looks like a fixed resistor of 500 ohm half watt will do nicely. AndyBaggies used a 750 ohm resistor instead to reduce the effect slightly. Martin also used a switch to remove the resistor from the circuit and put it back to normal for easier starting and when stopped in traffic if the temperature starts to soar.
So all you need to do is use quick splice crimp terminals to run wires from the ones mentioned up to a switch and resistor mounted up on the bars somewhere, possibly in a little waterproof box.
What you need to do is locate the ECU at the rear of the bike under the seat. It has two connectors, on the connector nearest the front of the bike locate the brown/black wire and the brown/purple wire (brown is the predominant colour). The idea is to short these two wires with a resistor in parallel with the wiring so that the ECU thinks the bike is running hotter than it actually is. This switches it to the lean map much earlier and makes it happy throughout the rev range.
Martin used a variable resistor so the value of the resistance could be tweaked but it looks like a fixed resistor of 500 ohm half watt will do nicely. AndyBaggies used a 750 ohm resistor instead to reduce the effect slightly. Martin also used a switch to remove the resistor from the circuit and put it back to normal for easier starting and when stopped in traffic if the temperature starts to soar.
So all you need to do is use quick splice crimp terminals to run wires from the ones mentioned up to a switch and resistor mounted up on the bars somewhere, possibly in a little waterproof box.
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Re: PC 3 required?
Thank you HiFi
Much appreciated for the info,
I removed the request for Martins box of tricks as I thought it was insensitive considering
Much appreciated for the info,
I removed the request for Martins box of tricks as I thought it was insensitive considering
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Re: PC 3 required?
Perhaps because I use the bike as my daily it didn't take long for the quick splice crimp terminals to fail to provide a decent contact. If I remember correctly the wire broke. So I did what I should have done in the first place and made a heat shrunk protected soldered joint.So all you need to do is use quick splice crimp terminals
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Re: PC 3 required?
Found a used PC 3 (TL1000S) for sale at reasonable price its on its way,
bike booked in for dyno testing and fitting at BSD performance Peterborough
bike booked in for dyno testing and fitting at BSD performance Peterborough